Hello,

what is the best/easy way to remove cured flex-coat from the guide wrappings and rod ?
getting ready to strip and re-wrap, and would like some advice from the board on how to
proceed.

Thanks!

Posted to the wrong one, sorry.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/13/2014 10:48AM by Chester Kiekhafer.

This is how I strip guides. It works very well for me.

Use a heat gun to soften up the epoxy/finish. Use a fingernail or a plastic scraper (I use the sharp edge of an old plastic burnishing tool) to remove about 2/3rds of the epoxy all the way around the blank. Now use your burnishing tool to loosen up some thread wraps near one end. Find a tag end and unwrap the thread. The remaining epoxy/finish will flake off.

The heat gun is absolutely key. I hit the spot I'm going to scrape on for a good 5-6 seconds, and then start scraping. Rotate the rod, re-heat and repeate until you are down to thread wraps.

Do not use any sandpaper or scouring pads unless you want to take the blank finish off as well! I also don't like to use a razor blade to cut the thread unless I have to.

To remove the remaining epoxy residue, apply more heat and use a clean rag and friction to rub it off. You can also use some denatured alchohol on the rag to help loosen up the more stubborn bits. This step is the hardest, and takes quite a bit of elbow grease. When it's finished though, you will have a clean rod blank to re-wrap your guide to.

If you do a search for removing finish epoxy, you'll find lots of comments.

Here's my process:
I'll use an alcohol flame and briefly heat a small area to soften the finish.
Use a plastic tool or your finger nail to remove the finish. It comes off pretty easily, most of the time.
If this is a wrap, I'll use an exacto knife to cut the wrap on the top of the guide foot and unwrap the guide. (You can do this step first if the finish isn't too brittle)
Grab the thread end and unwrap. The finish will come off when you unwrap.
Once all the wraps and guide is removed, you'll be left with some residual finish on the blank.
Using an alcohol flame, briefly heat the ridges of finish left over and pick off the remaining finish, same as above.
If you have a rod wrapper, mount the blank and spin it. Using a paper towel wet with alcohol, apply pressure as the rod spins and much of the small areas of finish will come off.
Some finish can be really stubborn and rejects the process above. When this happens, get out the 400 grit sandpaper and gently remove the offending finish. You will probably also remove the original blank finish but it's easy to tape off this small section and recoat with permagloss for a gloss finish, or satin urethane for a matte finish.

It's easier than it sounds but can be a little tedious. Be gentle with heat, especially in the tip sections.

Terry

One thing that people need to be aware of is l''lgstatic electricity when using solvents and cleaning when spinning the rod blank. This has happened to me many years ago when cleaning other spinning rollers on industrial equipment. It isn't fun so be very careful.

Be VERY careful with heat!
It does not take much on some blanks to cause the epoxy holding the blank itself together to soften also.
You then have a ruined blank.
A hair dryer may be a better heat source.

Best wishes,
Ron Schneider
Schneider's Rod Shop
Mountain Home, Arkansas
[www.schneidersrods.com]
mtnron40@yahoo.com
870-424-3381

GENTLE HEAT !!! - slice the threads on top of the guide foot - peel the remaining thread off - then a plastic picnic knife to clean up the remaining finish from the blank.

Rog

When cleaning up the blank, I use a razor blade held at right angles to the blank and then scrape.

By holding the blade at right angles to the blank, there is no issue in slicing off or under a piece of graphite .

As mentioned above, BE VERY VERY CAREFUL with heat! A heat gun and flame can very quickly damage the blank composite near or under the wrap. It may not be apparent to the eye, but structurally it is weakened! A hair dryer is a good option, even then do not leave it in one spot too long!

I use a scalpel, exacto knife or razor blade. Start at the point where the guide foot (not the tip of the foot) meets the blank and make a cut parallel to the blank. Be careful that the blade does not slip. Once you have cut into the thread about 1/8th inch, you will be able to peel the wrap off. Then follow the directions above to scrape the excess epoxy off the blank. Not really that difficult. Patience and good lighting is the key.

I Take a file and file the wrap down on top of the guide foot{ so not to hit blank} if two foot guide do both. pop guide off of blank peel thread and finish of of that area and find thread end and pull thread out from under finish this will make finish pop off .some rod finish needs a little heat and i use a heat gun to soften and i use a old credit card or use up gift card to scrape finish off of blank.

by doing the feet frist you will run into a lot less problems, easyer to start with a tag end of thread

William Sidney
AK