I have been making decals using my canon inkjet printers for many years and have had no problems with fading or color change. . . until this year. Two recent builds have shown severe color changes of the decals in only one season. I attribute the problem to using aftermarket inkjet cartridges (old frugal me) and sugget to others doing decals on their inkjets to use original equipment cartridges, both for color and black. I've checked many of my older builds and have found no problems.

Good advice Michael,

I've used an Epson Artisan 710 for a number of years now using only factory ink packs from Epson. I don't leave my gear in direct sunlight but I haven't noticed any fading either and no negative reports from my customers. Even rods I built seven years ago, when I first started building, are looking good. Some of those were on an older HP printer using only factory ink.

Thanks,
Chad Huderle

Huderle Custom Rods
Prior Lake, MN

Any trouble with edges of the paper you guys are using with the edges comming up
Thanks
This is good to know

Bill - willierods.com

I use the white vinyl media mostly, and yes, if I don't put a little cp along the edges, they may come up. It is important also to really put the pressure onto the decal with a plastic burnisher (using the decal backing as a pad between the burnisher and the decal to prevent damage by the burnishing operation. With stiffer media, like the holographic stuff, it is necessary to either do a wrap over the top of the decal and leave it overnight, or put the backing on top of the decal and tightly wrap with electrical tape and leave overnight. The smaller the diameter you're putting the decals onto, the more important it is to do these extra operations before applying epoxy.

I never took a liking to vinyl, just me I guess. I've always used clear-back waterslides. The paper I use is very thin so edges are no concern. I'm REALLY picky about edges showing so these water slides are my go-to for most builds.

I do have another process I use when applicable but it's more of a heat transfer process and no paper is invloved at all.

Thanks,
Chad Huderle

Huderle Custom Rods
Prior Lake, MN

I've always had trouble with water slides. Even as a kid making model airplanes I had trouble with waterslides. But even beyond that I can do some pretty vibrant printing on white vinyl that just doesn't have the punch on clear decals. And with clear, the background color is limited to the blank, or a painted section of a blank. With an inkjet I cannot do white on any media, but with vinyl, with the right design , the white background is the white when I want it. I'm sure you get better edges, but you can get some pretty darned good edges with sticky back. I almost always wrap over the ends and the other seam is under the rod as it is held in fishing position. You won't feel them, and done right, they really are hard to find.

All media has its strengths and weaknesses-it's all what is most important to you and your customers.

Good points Michael. You're right on target concerning the background showing through with clear-backs. I solved that by underwrapping with white nylon thread. I've come to like the way the light glistens off the thread even with a decal over it. Other colors can be used depending on what's such as metallics. The pearl thread that reflects the hints of blue/green/pick can make a great underwrap for a bass or walleye decal.

But you hit the bottom line on the nose, what are your strengths and what does your customer want.

Thanks,
Chad Huderle

Huderle Custom Rods
Prior Lake, MN

Like your underwrap ideas, will work with clear media peel and stick, too. Although, I still have the edges to worry about. :-)

Michael

Go back to the better ink You have said that untill you changed ink they all looked gread

Bill - willierods.com

Bill, you didn't really think I was going to repeat the error did you? I may be crazy, but I'm not stupid. :-)

I hope the heck not

Bill - willierods.com