I've been using a 2 part, slow cure, waterproof epoxy from the hardware store with great success for years now to glue each individual cork ring together, as well as to the rod blank. It has always worked well for me, except that the epoxy is relatively expensive. I can only get about 3-4 cork grips done per $10 package of epoxy.

I really prefer to glue each individual ring to the blank, and to each other at the same time. For me it's much easier to reem out individual 1/2 inch rings than a completed 7" grip.

I picked up 30oz's of U-40's rod bond, and I'm hoping that this stuff fits the bill.

What does everyone else use, and why?

Dave,

You can't go wrong with the U-40 Rod Bond. It is tuffer than anything I have ever used!

Don Campbell
don@sensorfishingrods.com

I glued up a crack in a coffee pot years ago and I make coffee every day lasted several years till I broke the pot No leaks
You don't need much of it It is a past yet one can just put a very thin coat and it works

Bill - willierods.com

I have used U-40 and ProPaste. I prefer the Pro Paste. When epoxy the faces of cork rings to each other you only need to get enough of the Pro Paste to make the cork face look wet. Clamp, done, with this small amount of paste it goes a long way. You can get the fast set which is 15 minutes also. You can easily glue up and clamp 14 rings, or a 7" grip in less than 15 minutes. Bigger grips, use the regular Pro Paste.

Buzz Butters
B&B Custom Rods
Ripon, WI

[www.facebook.com]

This is definitely an opinion question, but if I had to pick only one adhesivie for everything I'd pick U40 Rod Bond.

To me, it wets out better than most epoxies (including many liquids), can be applied very thin, or can gap fill if needed. Since it is a paste it stays where you put it and does not run or sag on you. It can also be tinted and tolerates additives - either pigments or fillers like micro balloons, micro spheres,etc. - very well. And it dries very hard but with some elasticity and shock absorption.

Lots of the liquid epoxies are actually pretty brittle once set. You can see what I mean by mixing a batch of liquid epoxy and pouring it out on a piece of aluminum foil and allowing it to set. Then do the same with Rod Bond but smear a thin coat on the foil and let it set. Once they have set, bend the foil around and try to 1) break the bond between foil and epoxy, and 2) break / shear the epoxy itself. The difference in properties will be dramatically apparent. But for what we do something as good as Rod Bond is probably overkill.

That being said, the best glue I ever found specifically for invisible glue lines on cork grips was Titebond II wood glue. Most of the bamboo guys (at least those willing to use modern adhesives) use that for a reason. Besides drying extremely thin, it has the advantage of being almost exactly cork colored when set. And it is cheap and readily available. I think this goes without saying but DO NOT attempt to glue handles or reel seats to the blank with Titebond II. It is JUST for cork rings. Hope this helps.

Great, thank you for the responses everyone. it sounds like I'll be getting some good use out of that Rod Bond.

I have a huge bottle of Titebond III and I use it only for gluing cork to cork. It does work great, and the glue line is pretty much non-existant.

How noticable is the glue line with Rod Bond?

You can also get an invisible glue line with Rod Bond it just takes more care. Spread both sides of your cork rings with Rod Bond, and then literally scrape off all you can. I like a dental spatula for this. You will leave a very thin film that just wets and slightly darkens the surface. Then clamp using enough pressure to compress the grip maybe 5% - 7% of overall length. As long as you scraped thin, you will be good. You will think you are not using enough glue but you are using plenty. I promise.

If you put the Rod Bond on too heavily (or don't scrape enough off), there is not enough clamping pressure in the universe to get invisible lines. That stuff is too wet and sticky - it doesn't want to squeeze out. This will also make sanding really tough because the RB doesn't sand as fast as cork and you'll get 'ridges'.

Also, make sure you wax your mandrel. Unlike any Titebond that squeezes into the center of the cork bore, Rod Bond will STICK to that mandrel. But if you get it thin and wax your mandrel it works great.

West System G_Flex.
Long working time.
One-to0-one mix.
Flexible when cured so no cracking when parts flex.
Waterproof - totally.
Herb

Herb, where do you get the G_Flex?

herb

Cheaper then Rod Bond ??
Thanks ( ya I read that post ) LOL

Bill - willierods.com

Bill, you are supposed to say thanks after he replies!! But it sure doesn't hurt to say it before!! LOL

Either Or ?? LOL At least we got some thing to laugh at

Bill - willierods.com

:-))

West System is made by Gougeon Bros. [www.gougeon.com].

You can buy it in West Marine (no relation). Or any good marine store.

Thank you for your thank-you's. And thank you in advance for your future thank-you's

Thank you,
Herb

:-))

West System is made by Gougeon Bros. [www.gougeon.com].

You can buy it in West Marine (no relation). Or any good marine store.

Thank you for your thank-you's. And thank you in advance for your future thank-you's

Thank you,
Herb

If money is the issue, fasco is a local brand with a proven track record down here. The large size containers are a bargain. I have never used it to glue cork rings together.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

For years I have used 30 minute epoxy that was available at the local builders store for $8 per lb. A great price for an excellent epoxy. Recently, the company is no longer making the epoxy available so I will be going to a different source.

But at the same time I have had a lathe for the last several years, and prefer to make the grips on the lathe. For cork to cork gluing, Titebond II is an excellent water based water proof glue. It is nice that it is water based, since one can wipe off excess glue with a damp rag. It is just a bit harder than the cork so it sands and works easily on the lathe.

Then, with the finished handle, it only requires a very small amount of epoxy to glue on the grip and the reel seat. So, it is a very good money saver to use non epoxy for the cork to cork gluing.

I would not recommend using titebond II for the cork to the blank bond however.

Be safe

For years I have used 30 minute epoxy that was available at the local builders store for $8 per lb. A great price for an excellent epoxy. Recently, the company is no longer making the epoxy available so I will be going to a different source.

But at the same time I have had a lathe for the last several years, and prefer to make the grips on the lathe. For cork to cork gluing, Titebond II is an excellent water based water proof glue. It is nice that it is water based, since one can wipe off excess glue with a damp rag. It is just a bit harder than the cork so it sands and works easily on the lathe.

Then, with the finished handle, it only requires a very small amount of epoxy to glue on the grip and the reel seat. So, it is a very good money saver to use non epoxy for the cork to cork gluing.

I would not recommend using titebond II for the cork to the blank bond however.

Be safe

Pro paste for me

Rolly Beenen
Rovic Custom Rods

This is a little off topic but a couple posts above mentioned titebond products, specifically Titebond II and Titebond III.

I've used both of these products extensively for a number of years so I feel confident in elaborating on them a bit.

They are both rated for outdoor use and they both clean up with water. Once cured, Titebond II is water resistent, while Titebond III is waterproof. For most rods, even rods left in rodholders on a boat all year long exposed to the elements, either will work just fine. You'd have to have an accidental extended soak scenario to experience any benefit of T3 over T2 - maybe something like a failed bilge pump with rods stored in a bilge locker where the water would rise to soak the handles. T2 can handle getting wet from rain or spray just fine as long as it has a chance to dry off later on.

T2 has a shorter set time which means you have to work more quickly than T3. For this reason, T3 is probably the better choice is you have an elaborate, complex, or large number of pieces to glue up. T2 needs to be clamped more quickly than T3 for the glue lines to be minimized.

T2 has a narrower application, set, and curing temperature range than T3. When working in colder climates and unheated areas like a garage or basement, T3 is a better choice than T2.

If you work in a shop that's heated in the colder months, or at least can bring your grip glue ups inside where's it's warm and you're not doing anything highly detailed T2 is probably your better choice. If your shop temperature dips below 55-60 degrees or you sometimes work on elaborate grips than need a longer open clamp time to assemble the parts, T3 is probably the smart choice.

I prefer Liquid Fushion. I use it to glue the rings to each other and directly on the blank. It is clear and flexible. Leaves no glue line.