As a big fan with building levelwind and casting rods with the spiral configuration, some details that came up regarding a pro musky guide in my area with 'real use' input from his field testing and fish catching experience (recently a 50" catch and release muskellunge).

The preferred blank here was the St. Croix SCIII musky tapers which are among the best available. The personal input given me from the rod's usage first was that less line looping problems was a joy. I hadn't thought to be a major consideration previously, but it attests more to the use of the spiral wrap for optimum performance and even line handling.
Of course, the idea of stability and less torquing on the tip section guides and blank was easily noticed. This particular rod also was proven in spring sturgeon river fishing with ease of bringing up 40+ lb. lake sturgeon. (big ones up to 100+ lb. exist here).

As a rodbuilder, it's good to get these inputs first hand. It amazes me each time the spiral wrapped custom rod is handled by someone new about the comments and how convincing the setup can be...from casting performance to better fish handling and landing. I get more convinved this is the way to go, but it's still a hard sell for many anglers.

Anyone else get different comments about why the spiral wrap is better?

Rich
Solyrich Custom Rods

Until somebody can show me any disadvantages I plan on sticking with the spiral wrap on all my casting rods from now on. I may even try some pretty heavy boat rods in the spiral wrap style this winter.

After building a spiral-wrapped striper rod for a seasoned guide and converting him to its benefits, I converted myself in the process. He won't fish anything else now and I don't care to build casting rods any other way. Just takes the guts to try it that first time and get used to the appearance.

By the way, how would you rate the 7' Rainshadow IM6 XX heavy for musky? Are they a worthy blank in comparison to the St. Croix?

Rob,
I am sure the Rainshadow blank may suit the purpose and better maybe for Bob Batson to dwell on the merits of the particular model you mention. For sure there are good choices to consider and this may be one.
I have to say, being partial to the expertise of St. Croix in musky tapers and their excellent reputation for these blanks generally I like choosing what is available from the SCII , SCIII grapites or the SCI
S-Glass... they are just so good for fitting in the pattern of today's musky hunters using the larger lures and lines.

I guess personally, am in search of the 'perfect' musky blank and each have their own preference for particular bait and presentations.

One think most musky anglers are not aware of the spiral configuration or even the benefits of having their musky rods custom built. Once they do, usually are convinced it's the way to go.
One idea locally is in the use of S-Glass in very cold weather rod usage, over graphite. Especially for seasonal late fall trolling techniques where so much doesn't relate to the rod having more sensitivity or light weight. The SCIII lightweight graphite seems to excell in the jerkbait and bucktail warmer weather all day casting situations... just too tiresome to use the heavier rods and reel setups.

I digress and apologize for being so general.

Rich
Richard's Rod & Reel

Rich,
I did a spiral wrap on a sage 3 pc this summer for myself and
like it alot.This was my first attempt at a spiral wrap.
I like the way it casts and would like to build them for
customers. but I am not sur if my guide placements are right
Do you have a formula you use?

Thanks,
Steve
Steve's Custom Rod & Tackle

Steve,
Some have come up with a fairly exact number formula for guide placement and this has come up recently with Don Morton's input which may become a standard for the future of rodbuilding. An upcoming article in RodMaker magazine intends to go indepth into the method, maybe not specifically for spiral placement. However, there are concepts to where the guides should be placed for the spiral wrap and it's good to have the reel placement and type known to be more exact in the alignment, especially where the butt guide should be placed. Start by finding where the rod starts to bend and have this marked as to where the butt guide goes. The idea here also is that the line from the reel to be below the top of the ring on the guide or just barely touching. Now it will take at least 3 more guides as your spiral guides to end up at 180 degrees from the reel.
From this point its best to have at least 5 or 6 guides or more out to the tip, but this may depend on the length of the blank. It may take even more on longer blanks.

I know this is a quick, but basic explanation. If Don Morton were to get into more depth with this, he has such a great way of getting the point across and now has some more exacting formulas that I would like to get more understanding also. For your spiral wrap, there are some modifications like Ralp O'Quinn has brought up that basically includes more guides to a fairly gradual spiraling and I like using this idea. You can tell if your spiral guides are best aligned when passing line, or I like using a very fine stiff straight blank section (UL short fly tip section works for me) between the side guides (spiral) and adjusting the guides so the line is best centered or just barely touching at the ring. Don't know if this explains it best, but the idea is for less line forces against guides or blank, for the line to shoot best through guide centers as much as possible.

If done right, you'll be amazed at even the casting distance achieved. I recommend also using good quality hard ring smooth guides for this. I am preferring more and more the TiCh and TiGold ring smooth guides or SiC, but this doesn't mean that you can't use hardalloy also. Use common sense as to what guides will be chosen to match the ;line and reel., and also the weight kept to a miniumum using smaller guides near the tip section depending on the blank. On the lighter blanks, this may be a factor.

I've stuck my neck here a bit. Hopefully Don or Tom Kirkman can jump in and add any extra points to help clarify the details.

Rich

Someone on this board mentioned a very easy technique which meets the purpose of spiral wrapping.
Attach tiptop and the the next couple of guides (tip end), then attach reel and run line through guides and tip. This will establish the straightest route to the tip. Note the line as it progresses down the blank and add guides to support this by guides placed where it touches them the least. I hope this makes sense. I used this to setup, then test cast and they were almost perfect. I have seen the need to typically move the butt guide closer than it was placed due to stacking(thats what I call it, don't know if that is correct or not) upon test casting.
This technique makes sense to me. Seems logical and easy. So far has worked great. Always remember there is not a "catch-all" formula. Each blank/reel combo has it's own characteristics and formulas or techniques should be a STARTING POINT. Test casting and static testing will FINE TUNE to get optimum results. Don't make it harder than it is. Keep it simple and remember what your goals are in achieving performance.
I am certainly not an authoratatvie source, so anyone correct me if I am off base.
Happy wrapping.

There have been two excellent articles in the Rodmaker issues from last year that detailed how to set up a spiral wrap. One was based on Ralph O'Quinn's testing and set up and another from Rich Forhan was on his Revolver Rod set up.

I'm currently building a steelhead casting rod to use as a float rod. and new to custom rod building. I'm going to do a sprial wrap but I'm having problems with the guide placement for the sprial wrap. I've read in Dale Clemens's book that the butt guide should be placed at 90 degrees from the center of the rod. A guy at a tackle store told me I should place the butt guide at the top of the rod. Could anyone help me out on which placement is best for a 13' float rod. Also one more question on the spiral wrap. In the book it shows a gradual spiral but, a Canadian rod builder who builds float rods does a fast spiral. Which would be best for my application? Thank you in advance.

Randy Gerrick

You need to get ahold of the two Rodmaker issues that had the spiral wrap outlined by Ralph O"Quinn and the one on the Revolver Style by Rich Forhan. Mr. Forhan places his guide offset so that the line is actually held at the 0 degree axis. Mr. O'Quinn puts his a bit offset so that the line can travel a straight path from the reel spool to the first underside guide. This is the arrangement I have used lately and I think it is a very good one.

No offense to the Clemens book or your local tackle store operator but I think the current information might work better for you. Look into the Sept/Oct 2000 Rodmaker for Mr. O'Quinn's in depth article.