For my first build, should I buy the high build or lite finish? I like the uniform thin finish look where you can see the wraps instead of the big uniform blob look - if you know what I mean. It will be a medium/dark blue blank with dark blue wraps and a metallic trim band - so I am thinking I don't need a CP, right? Help me but the right stuff - thanks!

Tod,
You can get identical results with either high build or thin.

With high build you can get the effect you want in one or two coats.

With thin, you may need more coats to get the desired look.

Apply the finish quickly when freshly mixed so both flow well and you will have equally good results.

By the way, I never use CP, unless there is a particular request from a client for the product. I very much prefer the appearance that one gets with standard nylon thread and no cp. This look is a semi translucent look from the thread which suits my clients and myself very well.

Be safe



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/25/2013 11:45AM by roger wilson.

For a New-be I would suggest the thin Two coats Do not try to get a lot on The first coat seals and shows Boo Boos Then the next should give a glass like finish

Bill - willierods.com

Two thin coats of Lite.. Lite takes longer to dry. High build will be dry in about 8 hours but is more difficult, for me anyway, to work with and shorter pot life than Lite.

Personal preference for me is two coats of the Lite build.

Buzz

Don't know of light taking long to dry
I thin out high build and it still sets up in about 5 hours

Bill - willierods.com

2 coats of Lite works for me more than 95% of the time.

So Bill I know you are stuck in your ways but I have to ask why would you thin out High build when there is light build available?

Rolly Beenen
Rovic Custom Rods

Most if not all are the same price
So why should I get light for the same price as high build
When I can make a high build a light and have more by volume Makes sense to me
Plus more control of what I need When I put the two parts in the cup I just add the thinner Mix it and if need be add more

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/27/2013 10:54AM by bill boettcher.

Tod,

IMHO, I would recommend the Mudhole's ProKote thread epoxy. It has a medium thickness, has a longer working time than most expoies and comes out crystal clear without bubbles. I would recommend two coats and I am confident you will be very please. Mudhole also make a High Build, which is thicker than the original ProKote. You will not be disappointed with ProKote. It is my "Go To" thread epoxy!

Don Campbell
don@sensorfishingrods.com

Thanks everyone! Great resource you have here! I will let you know how it goes.

We all have our favorite finishes and processes. You should find one that fits your style and methods.

Just to share, I use threadmaster lite and and usually have to put 2 coats on the butt wrap area, with the occasional 2nd coat on the thread wraps. The process where you put a thin 1st coat on, then another coat to create the final finish is a good one. I can get away with one coat on most guide wraps but since I do feather inlays, the butt wrap usually takes 2 coats so I take that opportunity to touch up the guide wraps that need it.

I've used Flexcoat lite and high build in the past and liked the lite, didn't like the high build. Working time isn't too important as I only spend a few seconds on each guide wrap. The Butt wrap area is best covered with a fresh batch so it flows and levels well.

Terry

I have been using the UV high build flexcoat and find it flows out nicely Don't know about the yellow thing this is clear in all my cups

Bill - willierods.com