Anyone have any comments on grip length for light fly rods, like a 3 weight? Seems like it could be less than the traditional 7-7.5 inches. thanks for your help.

You'd want to be able to move your hand fore and aft slightly to accommodate different casting styles, etc., so I wouldn't go too short. Something no less than 6.5 inches but no longer than 7 inches seems to fit most persons pretty well with the lighter and shorter rods.

If the rod is a full 9 footer, you might want to consider sticking with something like a 7 to 7.5 inch grip.

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It is a 9 foot rod, so will take your advice and stick with 7. thanks, Mick

I agree - stick with 7" and you should be good. Shapes that look good and fundtion well for a 3-weght include a cigar, a half wells (Fenwick) and the reverse half wells. I have also really liked a small diameter full wells on longer rods (9' and longer) even though it is not traditional.

I also really like carbon skinned foam core grips on these light rods. If you have not tried one you should seriously consider it. I can post some photos if you need them...good luck!

The amount of additional control and ease of effort between a carbon skinned foam grip and one made of cork, is astounding.

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I have the material and instructions for carbon skinned, and plan to do this rod that way. Wish me luck. Actually the grip will come together separate from the blank, so I'm not risking the blank on a new to me process. Once I get the grip to where I want it, it will be no risk after that.

Grips, in general, dampen the rod's ability to flex. If the blank wants to load into the grip area I use a shorter grip. Sometimes 6.75 even on a #10 saltwater rod. I found that the need to move your hand up or down the grip is way overrated. My older grips were 7.25-7.5" to give me that ability. The reel weight has too much effect on your swing when the distance increases between the reel and your hand. Gripping the rod just in front of the reel is best for me and many others I found. I am now ordering my CTS fly blanks in 8'9" lengths to compensate for my preferred hand position. If I want more blank in front of the grip I add a removable fighting butt which adds 1.5". If I want more length I cut the threaded portion of the seat by 1/2". But generally I just stick with a normal build.
My recommendation - cast the blank grip-less and see where it likes your hand to be.

Re carbon grips - had them on 3 saltwater rods and after a season I ground them all off. Slippery in saltwater - although more grippy when wet with freshwater. Also, very uncomfortable - hard on hands. Probably be O.K. On lighter rods where less energy is needed.
Would never use them again on any of my fly rods - maybe O.K. on spinning or casting rods. Just my opinion.
Regards,
Herb

I never found them to be slippery. How did you finish you's? Hammer handles aren't slippery and the vast majority are finished with a gloss varnish or urethane, similar to what most put on their carbon skins.

There is a reason you felt they were "hard on hands" and this goes back to the fact that until you learn that you can relax your grip due to their greater rigidity, you'll get hand cramps. It took me a good while to make it to that point. It goes away when mind muscle memory figures out the right grip strength. These grips excel in the heavier and longer rods precisely because they so greatly reduce the effort required to hold them, and cast the rod, with a soft, cushiony cork grip. Effort for effort, more energy makes it to the rod and the cast the more rigid the grip is.

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Tom,
I did not build/finish mine. The builder was very accomplished - but I do not know what the final finish was.
When you are in the surf up to your waist and very wet you cannot relax your grip on the rod. Maybe in more benign conditions I would change my mind.
As I said - when wet with fresh (tap) water they got "grippy". But were unstable in saltwater. I tried very hard to like them - didn't work for me on saltwater rods in wet conditions.
Also - have to be very careful when installing because the skin will slowly groove the blank if it comes in contact with it when flexed. I cut away some of the skin and inserted a neoprene "O" ring as a bumper.
Herb

Tom,
I did not build/finish mine. The builder was very accomplished - but I do not know what the final finish was.
When you are in the surf up to your waist and very wet you cannot relax your grip on the rod. Maybe in more benign conditions I would change my mind.
As I said - when wet with fresh (tap) water they got "grippy". But were unstable in saltwater. I tried very hard to like them - didn't work for me on saltwater rods in wet conditions.
Also - have to be very careful when installing because the skin will slowly groove the blank if it comes in contact with it when flexed. I cut away some of the skin and inserted a neoprene "O" ring as a bumper.
Herb

I'm not sure how that grip was built. My skins can't come into contact with the blank, no matter how much flex takes place. Nor have mine proved slippery in saltwater, nor anywhere else.

Not doubting your word, just curious exactly how those grips were made.

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I am a bit surprised by your experience.. You are actually the very first person I've ever talked to who tried them on fly rods and went away from them - in fresh or salt water. I built two Winston 5-weights that are identical - one with cork, one witih carbon fiber and I ask people to try before they buy. I have literally never had anyone choose the cork. But, to me this is one of the very best reasons to build custom rods. You can make them exactly how you like them and that's exactly what you should do. To each their own. If you don't like them go with what you like (not that you need my permission).

Personally, I absolutely prefer the carbon fiber grips over anything else I have used before - ESPECIALLY on heavier fly rods. I have not found them to slippery in fresh or saltwater. (I finish mine with both epoxy ala Mike Pedersen and Permagloss ala RodMaker Magazine but prefer PG for fly grips.) They are also infiinitely more durable which I have really come to appreciate fishing out of a kayak, out on docks and jetties, etc.

But most importantly - the rods are so much more responsive. You don't realize how much energy the cork is dampening until you feel it and experience it. Not to parrot Tom's post, but the amount of control and distance with the carbon fiber grips on a #9 or #10 is even more noticeable than on a #3 in my personal experience.

I do think getting the shape and diameter right - which is personal and subjective - is key. I built some in the beginning that were just too big in diameter. I have been well pleased since I got that figured out.

My hand and wrist did hurt the first time I ever used one, but I was definitely monkey gripping it. But by the end of the first week of using it at the beach, I had figured it out and I was totally sold. I actually ground off a bunch of cork grips and installed carbon fiber grips on some existing rods,. (I don't even want to think how much $ I had in that cork...I could puke). But I'm happy and I have not built with a cork grip on a fly rod since.

Hats off to you for at least trying them, in my book. Some won't even give it a whirl.

Tom,
I sent you an email.
Herb

Herb,

I didn't get anything as of 2:30PM.

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Bill F,
Your email is hidden.
Please email me at hladen@hotmail.com so we can "talk".
Herb

I find the carbon fiber grips to be both more sensitive and durable. Many of my customers now request them on all their new rods. I do find that there is a difference in how some want them finished, some want them glass smooth, while others like a little texture left on the surface. Never found them slippery, which really surprises first timers. I believe they are actually "no brainers" for fly rods, which is all I build.

Well, obviously comfort, feel, etc., is subjective. In the end you have to give your customer whatever makes him/her happy.

Back to the original context of the post regarding grip length, I think that may be more dependent on rod length than line weight.

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I'll stick with cork. I don't like the feel or look of the carbon skins. I guess I am too much of a traditionalist.

How do you like the look of a carbon fiber rod blank, or plastic fly line? Being a traditionalist I'm guessing you stick with greenheart, ash and horsehair or silk? Not trying to poke at you but the argument of "tradition" has always seemed selective to me. Seems like it would be all or nothing, not just this piece or that piece.

I am a traditionalist as far as cork is concerned. I have tried the others and don't like them. Silk works good!! :>)