Well here I am finally upset enough to consider painting rod blanks. Some blanks are just awesome but come in (my opinion only) horrible colors. Therefore i now need to decide to get an airbrush kit, use spray paint, or a spray gun. I am leaning toward the airbrush only because it is only a few blanks that i want to do. I tried to use spray paint before- then put on permagloss which burned the paint right off. tried the same thing with lumaseal did the same thing (btw i love these products for unfinished blanks but not right application here). Is there a type of spray paint sold that will stand up to the permagloss? That would be the easiest solution. But if that doesn't work i saw that they now sell two part urethane clear coat in a spray can. Has anyone ever tried this before? Will it take the spray paint off?
next option is the airbrush which i have been looking into. Looked at lots of "how to videos" and it seems the only annoying thing is all the cleaning of the brush and thinning of the paint. Has anyone gone this route and said "this is a waste of time" or "i wish i had never gotten involved in this". I have read a lot of stuff here that people are happy with using air brush with large tip.
Then of course there is what type of airbrush to get- i am leaning toward double action gravity fed brush but would really love any advice here.
Finally there is a spray gun which seems like overkill to me but then i dont know anything to begin with.
As always any input is greatly appreciated!!!

An air brush isn't really meant for larger work - it's for detail stuff, mostly.

I don't know how anyone can package a two-part paint in a single unit can. No idea. I doubt, however, that it's going to be as durable as a good two part automotive urethane.

At one time, there were only a couple or three colors offered in rod blank. For a couple decades, all graphite blanks were gloss charcoal. That was it. We got our colors from the thread and didn't worry too much over the color of the rod blank. Sometimes I think lately guys are going overboard on blank colors (and adding a lot of performance reducing weight in the process) but I do understand that folks like what they like.

One thing to keep in mind - the instant you alter your blank's finish by re-painting it, you've voided your warranty as far as most manufacturers are concerned.

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Go to the search button and type in ``Tinting Permagloss" Then go to the bottom of the page and click on ``All dates'' then hit search. Lots of info to answer these questions.

Bill

Ohio Rod Builders

Canton, Ohio

Google spraymax!!

3M Accuspray Spray Gun Model HG09
3m pps disposable cup system

The only cleanup is rinsing the tip out

I took a look at that product SprayMax - it's actually two parts separated within the same can and mixed as they are sprayed out. In this case you're likely to have a much harder finish than you'd get with the run of the mill single component spray. Could be a very interesting product for rod builders. Thanks John.

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If you want to try an air brush get one that handles a lot of volume of paint,I have tried it with my Iwata air brush I use on lures and it just runs out of paint to soon.

I have to agree with Tom ,spraymax does look like its worth a shot. Whatever you decide do not be fooled by flex additives (they just slow the drying process and evaporate over time ). Also stay away from fast drying clears, they tend to be too brittle.

Mike,
For what it's worth, I just finished spraying an ocean jig rod I am building for a friend. I painted the rod with Tamiya RC car body paint in a spray can. Then I sprayed the rod with two part automotive clear coat and it came out great. I used a Paasche two phase air brush with the #3 tip, (largest), and it puts out a large enough cone to cover the rod fine. As noted above, they do run out of paint quite quickly so you have to watch the paint level in the glass cup. I have a spray gun; but you end up wasting a lot of the clear coat which is expensive. A fellow rod builder gave me some Tupperware containers of the clear coat, (resin, hardener and thinner). I live in CA and you cannot but the good stuff here any longer. I don't want to waste what I have; because when it is gone it is gone, (unless I drive over to AZ and buy some)!

Don Campbell
don@sensorfishingrods.com

Check out Klass Kote They have a nice urethain clear that can be thinned and dries hard

Bill - willierods.com

I think it might be easier, better and cheaper if you could find a garage nearby that does car paint work. Most of them are usually friendly enough,(especially if they fish themselves), to make them with reasonable charges. The results done by a pro with his professional equipment would be perfect,(no dripping paint marks etc). Just tell them what kind of paint you 'd like.

Phillips Hot Rods
C Y P R U S
[phillipshotrods.wix.com]

Ok wow lots of good ideas. I ordered some tamiya spray and a bottle of super max 2k gloss finish. This seems the easiest route. I would love it if body shop guy would paint it but he won't do it. I live in NY, no one is friendly (ha). I will post how this comes out. Tom I would normally agree with you about weight and stuff but this tangerine brown color just doesn't work for me.

To keep the weigt down, remove the old finish first. This should also act a prep for the new finish :)

Chris Richer
Iroquois ON

Don thanks for the tip to use Tamiya paint! I just read the 2k clear will burn off acrylic paint. The last question I have would be if I should use an adhesion promoter or not? I will do my best to wet sand down the blank to keep weight down although it is a rather large saltwater blank the weight increase may not mean that much.

I build mostly larger live bait rods which are always painted. Ive used spray bomb and ive used true auto base / clear. IMO nothing beats true 2k clear.

Yes, spray bomb works but its not as tough and you just cant get that deep rich color 2k clear provides. If you have the equipment to spray I highly advise going with true auto paint.

I have seen the spraymax products but never tried. I was always turned off due to the fact that once you activate the can its done.

If anyone ever comes up with a spray clear which provides a finish which is closer to that of a 2k please let me know. i would love to not have to clean guns over and over.

And on the note of spray guns. Go to harbor freight and they sell a small detail gun for about 12 bucks. Air brush just isnt large enough

Here

[www.klasskote.com]

Bill - willierods.com

bill boettcher Wrote:
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> Here
>
> [www.klasskote.com]

Sorry I was not clear. I meant if anyone found a spray can clear which provided results close to that of 2k I would be interested. Cleanign guns takes time and $$

All ya got to do is after spraying the paint or clear is spray thinner thought the gun
I used spray guns for years doing body work
Clean cup thinner and then just wash the spray tip Not that much to get a NICE finish on rod blanks

Or

DupliColor spray paint Auto After a GOOD Blank Prep
Then let dry 5 - 7 days and Permagloss or lumiseal

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/29/2013 05:37PM by bill boettcher.

bill boettcher Wrote:
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> All ya got to do is after spraying the paint or
> clear is spray thinner thought the gun
> I used spray guns for years doing body work
> Clean cup thinner and then just wash the spray tip
> Not that much to get a NICE finish on rod blanks
>
> Or
>
> DupliColor spray paint Auto After a GOOD Blank
> Prep
> Then let dry 5 - 7 days and Permagloss or lumiseal

Ive just never had that kind of luck with spray guns. I have always found that if you dont break them down and clean, they end up junk. Now with the 13.00 HF detail gun its not that big of a deal but im not gonna chance my develbiss or satas... The darn things are just too expensive.

I have yet to try the permagloss or lumiseal over paint.... its something which is on my list to experiment with

Mike

Where in NY are you. I work in Corning NY and have been painting cars for 20 years and would be happy to help! Let me know if you are interested.