Robert Box asked a question about leveling FC lite. Could he, provided the coverage is thick enough, sand the FC level and recoat the wraps again. Of course care would need to be taken not to sand into the thread, but would this work?

Clint

Sanding to get it all level would be the best thing to do, if those bumps and waves are really noticeable. But sanding guide wraps isn't the easiest thing to do what with the guide foot sticking up there!

I think what I'd do if the problem is only slight is just leave it alone and try to do better on my next one. Or maybe leave the guide wraps alone and just sand and recoat any long or large areas such as a butt wrap or inscription and make that look better.

We live and learn. Each rod gets better than the one before it.

I've sanded before. It takes some time and patience. I use a 3M sanding sponge. Not the big thick ones, the 1/4" thick 8 1/2" x 11" gray ones. They come in a Fine (120) and a Superfine (400). I cut them into 3/4" x 1" pieces. I put a piece of masking tape at each end of the wrap to protect the blank. I rarely use the 120. Mostly use the 400. Then to bring the scratches down a bit I use a piece of 3M polishing paper.

To anyone with lumps and curiosity.
I’m curious as to how the lite-formula coat looks over a sanded portion of a previous thread wrap. Let me know Mr. Davis. Clear as the first? Any debris in the sanded surface?
This may be redundant, because I miss a lot of good posting on this board, but it is very easy to remove the old thread and wrap and try it again. On your technique, a practice blank helps to have around whether your practicing wraps, color combos, color preservers or epoxy techniques and tools. My technique of leveling epoxy is a steady handed pass from left to right with constant speed and constant pressure. This usually makes the initial waves identical therefore the level simultaneously. A few passes with low power, high heat hair dryer will level about anything after that, but be sure your work area is clean and dust free before you do this. You could blow shtuff into your wet epoxy very easily. A good wipe down and a pass with the hair dryer previous to epoxying will prep your work area enough. I don’t always use the hair dryer, but it may help leveling as the heat brings back the epoxies original viscosity, more wet. Some rod builders I know don’t epoxy without it.
Yes, Two other great points in previous posts, level rod (parallel to horizontal), and amount of epoxy. Stuff that just takes practice.

MM

I use LS2000 Supreme. It will cover and completely hide 400 grit scratches. I like to go a step further to "CYA" but I have gone right over 400 grit scratches and not been able to see them at all. I don't notice a difference in non-sanded areas either. The only place I guess that happens is right over the guide foot. On an inscription I go all the way around the blank. CYA. And you do need to inspect for debris, but the polishing paper really removes any debris and certainly doesn't leave any.

On other epoxies and polyesters that I've used in other fields I've been able to cover and hide 220 grit scratches, so I was never concerned about 400. But I'm too anal to not go a step further than I think is necessary.

Also, I don't need to do it nearly as much now. I've gotten a lot better over time. But my first few rods saw a lot of sanding.

Clint, I decided not to sand just for that reason. I didnt want to have to rewrap. Instead I took my time and applied a thin 3rd coat. It turned out much better
I guess a rule of thumb is when you think you are taking your time.....SLOW DOWN!
RB