I am working on two IGFA trolling rods. I am wondering if there is a preferred length for these type rods. I know I can trim a few inches off the butts if I need to. These are 80lb blanks and will be fished strictly from a fighting chair, but may be used on various boats. Any thoughts on the normal length or the pros and cons of shorter or longer lengths is appreciated. If it makes any diffence these are Seeker fiberglass blanks. Thanks.

We manufactured Regulation Trolling Rods when I had my shop on Maui for many years. The standard length that the 80 lb. blank would be 66" from the manufaturer. As custom builders, we would build them according to the the boat, and or position of the fighting chair. Transom clearance would always be a main consideration. We would never trim the regulation blanks to less than 60".
Bob Batson
Rainshadow Rod Blanks & Forecast Rod Components

These are 68". So should I just leave them alone? Why would you ever trim one any shorter? Sorry for all the questions I guess I am just trying to figure out how one determines what is the correct length. Maybe the manufacturers don't intend for them to be trimmed at all.

2 inches is not going to change the leverage factor by much if at all,and in the case of a true trolling rod,2 inches to long is far better then 2 inches to short,one quick touch of the line on the transom and it could be all she wrote,unless there is some pressing need to obtain a good fit with the unibutt leave as they are.

John's point is well founded, especially with the application of regulation trolling rods..

Hi Pete.

My opinion is that if you are not building your rods to suit a particular chair position in a specific boat, then you ought to build as close to full length as possible. I agree with John's post- better to err on the side of excess on that issue.

2" off a 68" tip won't make an appreciable difference in terms of leverage, as the length of the tip is only reduced by about 3%.

One customer I've built shorter trolling rods for wanted a rod where the tip could be reached while in the rod holder (easy to grab the line without jumping for it in rolling seas) or with a fish coming in. He tended to fish alone and would keep the rod in the holder during the fight and when it was time to gaff the fish, he could grab the leader easily with the rod still in the holder.

If you build full-length, the thing you need to be concerned with is proper fit at the ferrule and tiptop.

Tight Lines

Tom

I don't think I would ever trim butt or tip just to get the right fit for the uni-butt or tip top. I would shim or go up or down in component size or whatever I needed to get the fit right instead of altering the blank to do that.

You have all given me some ideas and I know a bit more about how to make my decision now. I thank all of you for your input. Very valuable.

The guys are right in what you have been told. I build a huge amount of heavy tackle chair rods mainly chasing fish around the 700 to 1200 pounds and as Bob said you need all the transom clearence you can get... one touch on the transom and its all over. Shortness dosent come into the eqation because you are sitting for a start and all harnesed to the chair and besides if its a good skipper he will position the boat in the right spot for the angler at the right moment. Keep them long as possible.

Stuart mackenzie
Precision Rods

The captain of the boat and how he manuvers is the key to landing a fish. I don't care how good you are at playing the fish, if the captain can't keep the boat oriented properly, you are screwed again.