I know this is nothing special but I was so excited I had to post some pics!
I started last night with the double foot micro guide and had a few hideous wraps. My biggest problem was cutting the tag end at the end of a wrap. This morning I finally realized my error...I was pulling the tag end through and only far enough to cut instead of pulling the tag end all the way through and then cutting. (face palm)

I can move the single foot guide around fairly easily but the double foot guide is a bit difficult. Is that normal or do I need to reduce the tension?

On my manual wrapper, lets say I am at the rear side of the wrapper and my thread carriage is on the front side of my wrapper. When I am wrapping thread, should the line of thread between the spool and the blank be leading the wrap on the rod or should it be behind it slightly or just lined up straight with the edge of the wrap? It seems that if it is leading I am constantly having to push it in place and if it is lagging behind to much it wants to sometimes climb on the wrapped threads. What seems right to me is slightly lagging so that the thread wants to lay tightly next to the already wrapped thread.

Oh and constructive responses on the wraps much appreciated!
Thanks for looking!!

Photos should go on the photo page. Thanks.

One thing I'd recommend, is that you taper the ends of the guide feet to a bit shallower angle. This will help you get a neater transition from the blank to the guide foot with your thread.

....................

Wraps look great. As Tom said, prepping the guide feet will make for a much easier wrap. When I cut my tag ends I pull the tag fairly hard and slice with the razor. Pulling the tag end tight allows it to sort of spring back under the wrap.

Sorry Tom, didn't realize no photos here...

What's the best way to hold these micro guides when filing them down? I tried for a bit on the double foot but really did not get much off and didn't even attempt the single foot.

I have a small grinder. I use a small bolt #8x32 or similar size depending on the size of the guide. I put the guide between two nuts. The bolt serves as a handle and keeps my fingers out of the wheel. I use masking tape as a cushion between the nuts and the guide surfaces. I can tighten the nuts enough to keep the guide from turning while grinding and it also keeps the nuts from damaging the guide surface.

Bruce
Boise, ID

These are guide holders I made from scrap plastic rods, plastic screws, and assorted o'rings and faucet washers

[www.rodbuilding.org]

"It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble.It's what you know for sure that just ain't so." Mark Twain
John in Wethersfield, CT

Bruce Johnstone Wrote:
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Thanks for the tip Bruce!
I would have been afraid that the insert would come out or be damaged, would have never thought to do that.

> I have a small grinder. I use a small bolt #8x32
> or similar size depending on the size of the
> guide. I put the guide between two nuts. The
> bolt serves as a handle and keeps my fingers out
> of the wheel. I use masking tape as a cushion
> between the nuts and the guide surfaces. I can
> tighten the nuts enough to keep the guide from
> turning while grinding and it also keeps the nuts
> from damaging the guide surface.
>
> Bruce
> Boise, ID

Many of the micro guides already have pretty thin feet. The larger double foot guide in your photo, however, would surely benefit from a little more foot prep.

..............

Hi Mark,
I use a small pair of flat nosed jewelry pliiers to hold them. Bit of masking tape around the ends protects the inserts. On double footers I hold one foot while grinding the other and with single foolers you have to hang onto the ring. Micros aren't easy to do for the first few but it get's a lot easier with a bit of practice. Barry Chapman made a similar device to John Repaci's which I will investigate further next weekend.
Best to line your thread up so it's slightly behind your windings and that will pack it better. You have to keep moving it as it will do what you found, ride up over the windings. That's not uncommon, happens to everyone.
Your tag ends will improve with practice. Try the method where you put the pull through in about 10 wraps from the end and when you finish pull the tag end until it is just tight but not under the wrap. Cut the tag end so it's slightly shorter than where you put the pull through in and then pull it firmly away from you at about a 45 degree angle. There should be no tag end visible. Might take a couple of practice go's to get it right.
What you've done is good, couple of small fuzzies that can be melted with an alcohol burner. A large fuzzy may leave a small nub of melted nylon which can be carefully cut off with a single edged blade etc after the first coat of finish. You have to use a second coat to get an even finish.
Keep practising, you''ll get there shorly.

ESFNEM Col
Port Kembla, NSW
Australia

Just a ?, What size are those micros, they look really small, and I am wondering cause they look so close together. but the wrap looks nice!

I use inexpensive nylon bolts from the hardware store. I have about a half a dozen various sizes. Works great
[www.rodbuilding.org]

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Col Chaseling and Mike,
Thanks for the tips!!

lorenzo,
The guides are 5 and 4.5 IIRC. They are strictly practice wraps on an old rod, not intended for actual use.

You might want to check the library for instructions on the Forhan locking wrap...

You definitely want the thread to be slightly behind the wrap. my wraps are very tight, but you should experiment to see what works best for you. I use a dremel with a flat cutting wheel and pinch the micro guides between my fingers to lightly grind just the end of the guide. I grind a very small edge just to help get the thread to start easily over the guide foot. Many I've talked to don't prep the feet at all. Again, you should try both ways to see what works. What have you used to attach the guides to the rod to hold them during wrapping? I use 2 methods to trim the tag end after pulling it through. It usually depends on what type of thread I use. The normal NCP or CP thread has just a little stretch. All that means is if you pull the tag end tight while you trim it, it will pull back under the wrap just slightly and give a nice clean finish. If you use metallic thread, I don't get any stretch from them. In fact, I have to be careful not to pull too hard and break the thread. I'm not saying the thread is easily broken, just that I tend to pull pretty hard on it. I tend to lay the exacto knife flat on the wrap right behind where I will trim the thread. Then I pull the thread back over the blade and let the blade cut the thread. You may want to try an exacto knife instead of the razor blades. Just an idea. I have more trouble holding a razor blade than the exacto knife. Again, that's only personal preference. Also, I agree with you - it's a lot easier to move a double foot guide than a single foot guide. But, since the double foot guide is closest to the butt and the blank is larger in diameter, you shouldn't have to move the double foot as much as some of the running guides near the tip.

If you're feeling more confident with the regular wraps you should try to add the locking wrap. You can find it in the search tab, just remember to change the date to all. On the micro guides I usually modify the Forhan style. I use 2 locking wraps and 2 blocking wraps, and that's all. On a 6mm or larger guide, especially the larger spinning guides, I use the Forhan locking wrap.

Todd Badgley Wrote:
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> You definitely want the thread to be slightly
> behind the wrap. my wraps are very tight, but you
> should experiment to see what works best for you.
> I use a dremel with a flat cutting wheel and pinch
> the micro guides between my fingers to lightly
> grind just the end of the guide. I grind a very
> small edge just to help get the thread to start
> easily over the guide foot. Many I've talked to
> don't prep the feet at all. Again, you should try
> both ways to see what works. What have you used
> to attach the guides to the rod to hold them
> during wrapping? I use 2 methods to trim the tag
> end after pulling it through. It usually depends
> on what type of thread I use. The normal NCP or
> CP thread has just a little stretch. All that
> means is if you pull the tag end tight while you
> trim it, it will pull back under the wrap just
> slightly and give a nice clean finish. If you use
> metallic thread, I don't get any stretch from
> them. In fact, I have to be careful not to pull
> too hard and break the thread. I'm not saying the
> thread is easily broken, just that I tend to pull
> pretty hard on it. I tend to lay the exacto knife
> flat on the wrap right behind where I will trim
> the thread. Then I pull the thread back over the
> blade and let the blade cut the thread. You may
> want to try an exacto knife instead of the razor
> blades. Just an idea. I have more trouble
> holding a razor blade than the exacto knife.
> Again, that's only personal preference. Also, I
> agree with you - it's a lot easier to move a
> double foot guide than a single foot guide. But,
> since the double foot guide is closest to the butt
> and the blank is larger in diameter, you shouldn't
> have to move the double foot as much as some of
> the running guides near the tip.
>
> If you're feeling more confident with the regular
> wraps you should try to add the locking wrap. You
> can find it in the search tab, just remember to
> change the date to all. On the micro guides I
> usually modify the Forhan style. I use 2 locking
> wraps and 2 blocking wraps, and that's all. On a
> 6mm or larger guide, especially the larger
> spinning guides, I use the Forhan locking wrap.

Good to hear from you Todd and thanks for the input!
I bought some of the small zip ties like we discussed for the single foot guides but have not tried them yet, figured I would try the (perceived by me) harder way first with tiny strips of tape while practicing and then use the ties when it really counts.
I do like the idea of using an exacto knife and plan to get some new blades for mine soon.
After I feel like I have "mastered" a regular wrap I will definitely try the Forhan locking wrap.

Best Regards
Mark

Great ideas.Bingo.I have one contribution to mkae despite my lack of experience [couple years]
Put the razor blade in a hemostat.It`s cheaper that an Xacto blade,at least the Harbor Freights ones are.
I`m getting alot of good info around this place.
BTW,I`m specialising in ultra light spey rods for my river [Truckee]
I think I have a good market around here.