I just completed 4 tiger wraps and the patterns under did not show up very well. When you burnish the bottom, should some of the blank be showing between your S shapes? The underneath does not show through as it should...........any advice,thanks Gene

No, not at all. But you should try to get a non-uniformed pattern down there.

I assume you are making the top wrap in the opposite direction that you did the bottom wrap, right?

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Thanks Tom.....yes I did the overwrap in the opposite direction,with a sacraficial thread,which was removed....I just did not get the desired final effect. Gene

What were you looking for? What did you get? What was your procedure and what color thread?

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

How many coats of finish did you put between the top and bottom layers? Sometimes burnishing both layers in opposit directions helps too.

I like to use NCP(light color) and Madeira on bottom, then Madeira with size A sac thread on top. My tigers are always wicked looking with complete color shift. One coat lite and 2 coats high build. I think next time I will just use one coat high build because I am getting such great results. There is a slight size difference between Mad and NCP which brings out a lot of your light color(NCP) in the wrap. I just did a hunter green and tan NCP to pull off a camo wrap and it looks great.

as I am new to bulding rods an need a little help what is a tiger wrap on a rod as i can't find a thing on them Bill

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

here william check out the articles [www.rodbuilding.org]

Bill - willierods.com

Mike, I used black and white on the bottom, burnished , and used maroon and white[sacraficial] on top with two coats finish between ,wound in opposite direction with white[sac] and maroon on top,pulled sac thread and put on finish.....The bottom did not look as it should, just a striped pattern. Thanks for your reply Gene

Doc, I used two coats in between, and did not burnish the top layer of thread, ont coat over the top. Thanks for your reply,Gene

Two things that might help Gene. 1. is a third coat of finish which should help give the pattern more movement. More of a lensing effect. 2. I have taken to burnishing in the opposite direction on the top layer but not as agressive as I burnish on the bottom. I try to impagine making a U shape in one direction then making a U shape in the opposite direction. I know I posted a picture once on the technique but have no idea how to find it or make a link for you. Maybe someone can help with that, if not then maybe check my pics on the picture section of the site. Also if you need you can email me and I will send you the pics or tuts I have on the subject

This is fun stuff - explanations are very difficult

What you see involves how much light is reflected, adsorbed. how far it travels after it enters the wrap and the clarity/thickness of the barrier layer..

When you take a look at the linked information you could conclude that the maximum light adsorbed occurs with darker colors.

If you add additional coats between layers The light has a longer distance to travel revealing more apparent shift.

Color selection has a lot to say about the development of patten shift.

[www.physicsclassroom.com]

I don't do many of these things but have been more satisfied using darker colors on top

This one is all black - [www.rodbuilding.org]



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/16/2011 08:16PM by Bill Stevens.

Also it is said that the thicker the finish is on the bottom wrap the better it looks

grab some scrap blanks and -- Play --

I don't do totally as said to i put the base thread on and pack - As I pack I push from each end and burnish at 4 access Right side then 1/4 turn left side then 1/4 turn making an S in the thread

I add the end wraps later

Bill - willierods.com

Gene did you heat it up and let it cool before pulling the sac thread out?

Good point

Bill - willierods.com

Try using size A madeira and size A NCP on bottom, and Madeira and size A sac on top. The size difference between the threads gives a great color shift. You barely tilt the rod and watch it move. Really cool. I've never gotten as good of results with using the same size thread.

Gene, did you wrap the bottom threads tightly, medium tight or rather loose? As soon as my bottom two threads are definitely secured, I then loosen the tension as much as I can while still being able to keep the two adjacent to each other as they go on. At the end of the wrap I pick the tension up to securely lock them down. This allows me to carefully go back and move the threads around with a light drag of my fingernail in various dirctions. At this point, even before any coats of epoxy, I can definitely see the uneven, waviness that will be greatly enhanced later with the thickness of epoxy coats and the opposite top thread. Good luck!