Having not finished guides in some time, my skills were not up to requirements. I was careful to mix and pour out my Flex Coat onto aluminum foil according to instructions. The air temp was high 60s. I think the main problem was my application technique. I think Flex Coat can give a great finish. My finish was uneven, except for one quide where pot life, the size of my brush, and my strokes lucked out. I think most builders could carefully recoat and smooth the guide finish. However, I stood to just add another uneven coat. What to do? I decided to try to treat the guide finish like a worn auto paint redo. I leveled the wraps at 24 hrs. drying time, using 400 grit wet sanding. I followed with 800, 1000, 2000 grit wet sanding. Then I used DuPont rubbing compound, followed by Blue Magic Plexiglass Cleaner, then Sonus Enhance SFX-2 Anti-swirl Polish. I finished polishing the guide wraps, decorative wrap and the rod with Klasse All-In-One. The result isn't perfect, but very beautiful. (I didn't try to sand out every imperfection, out of fear of sanding too deep.) This laborious process isn't the best way to get well-finished guides, but it can work if your finishing technique lets you down.

I do think Plexiglass Cleaner, followed by an acrylic sealant (Klasse, in this case), might be a nice thing to try to clean up worn, scratched-up guide wrap finishes.

Have a read through the library section A quick read often saves hours of sanding ( it sorted my problem out when my finnish suddenly went tits up after many moons of applying the stuff)

I think what you may do next time is # check on Tom's post on appling finish. Also when you apply finish , look at the under side you can see where the finishes are un even . you can ether fill the low areas or move some of the areas where the finish is high to the low areas. Also I would apply mutiple thin coats, allowing 10 minutes between coats. I apply my coats while the rod is turning on the dryer. after finishing I stop the turning rod long enough to allow the the finish to puddle on the underside and wik off the exccess, then I restart the rod turning again. Other rod builders use different methods. Lso with uneven finishes you can use a razor blade holding it at 90% to the finish an lightly scrape the high spots and refinish.

Good Wraps Bob

Thanks for your thoughtful replies. The article in the library on finishing is excellent, along with your advice. I need to practice proper techniques. I might wrap some paper clips on a piece of dowel, to simulate guides. I'll also be looking for the best application brushes for me to use. This website is a terrific resource.

In return for your help, I'd like to suggest considering always applying a UV protectant to your rods, to help reduce sun wear and tear. Many of the products that protect auto finishes would be appropriate, as well as 303 Protectant, which was developed for aviation applications. As 'Master of the Obvious', I understand you may already have worn that topic out. Thanks again.

That article of Toms is excellent. Also 400 dry will work, the next coat of finish will fill the scratches and you will not see them. Maybe try a light finish, don't keep your finish room to hot, speeds up set time. make sure the rod is Level ! I find two thin coats works best for me.

When you sand your finish try NOT to go into the threads. You will get the hang of it again.

Bill - willierods.com