That's it - I 'm going to steal it and publish it retroactive - this time, 6 years ago.

.................

Flaming and overheating the finish will harm the finish. It is the CO2 in the flame that pops the bubbles. That is why your breath works to pop bubbles Ihave used a flame but don't get it to close to the finish. It is the CO2 that actually causes the bubble to pop.

SO I guess my microwave oven gives off CO2 radiation, and when I put teh mixed finish in a shot glass into a cup of hot water, adn all the bubbles pop - CO2 seeps throughthe glass into the finish, and into the eposy to release bubble.

Myth Busters NERB style.

Breath being 98.7 degrees has nothing to do with bubbles popping.

Billy Pink Shoes,
Talk to Ralph O'Quin about using your "warm" CO2 on epoxy LOL

"It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble.It's what you know for sure that just ain't so." Mark Twain
John in Wethersfield, CT

Mr. Vivona if I see any little tiny multi colored bubbles floating down the aisle in High Point I will make the assumption you are demonstrating the finer techniques of Nerbian FF (finish frothing). Please be advised that if any of these cursed amine containing spherical missles land on my exposed skin causing severe damage I will immediately take the required action. I will not be the only person on the Show Floor with prepared legal documents in my pocket and will be fully prepared to act swiftly and decisively on a moments notice.

PS - wannaswapshirts? }>

Way I see it, it's all about temperature, the warmer the finish, the easier the bubbles pop, the colder the finish the thicker it is and the slower they will pop, if they do at all.

Thin warm finish = no bubbles, thick cold finish = bubble trouble.

Wrong or right, that's my story and I'm sticking to it. :-)

DR

Billy what am I doing wrong? Some times when I read some ot the ideas others have I wonder if all the years of rod building and going to seminars since the 70s that I learned nothing. I wonder what these people would say if they saw Kel Cheatham use his blow torch (huge blow torch) to torch the finish. LOL

I'm going to vote for DR !

Thin warm finish = no bubbles, thick ,cold finish = bubble trouble !!
( wrong or right, thats my story and I'm sticking to it )

The thinner the finish, the more easily bubbles escape. Heat temporarily thins the epoxy. And... air expands when heated. Thus with heat, small bubbles become larger bubbles which rise through the finish to the surface more quickly.

Heat from a gentle flame will not harm your epoxy. "Torching" to the point of applying extremely strong heat does indeed change the properties of the epoxy and can result in cracking, crazing and discoloration of the epoxy (not just at the guide feet edges). And, torching (as I described here) isn't necessary. You can do the same job with far less heat.

It doesn't matter if somebody did it and got away with it - you aren't going to find an epoxy formulator that recommends applying strong heat to their epoxy mix. It's not necessary.

Of course, you're always free to do whatever you want. Just don't blame the epoxy if you should happen to have problems.


.............

Billy, Bring the torch to High Point and we will arrange a "Finish off" at the lounge Saturday night. Cant wait to see the drips on the table.

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

It is common sence. Put a straw into honey, plow and cause bubbles, they will take a long time to even come to the top - if they do. Now do the same into water, bubbles come to the top fast, and are gone.

Bill - willierods.com

Drying box at constant 90degrees and problem solved....no reason for flame although sometimes out of habit. Oops.

Tom, is right on.....adding additional hardner or resin beyond the 1 to 1 ratio will not help in any way, and is often the cause of "tacky epoxy!" Very careful measurements and complete mixing are essential. I have used most brands of epoxy (finally settling on Threadmaster) and do not worry about bubbles during or after the mixing process because as mentioned before, they are very easy to get rid of by blowing through a straw on the mix after is spread thin on foil.

Steve,
Many many many cases of tacky finish are the result of incomplete mixing of parts A and B.
Use equal parts of A and B. Use syringes to insure that you have equal parts of A and B.
Then, when mixing, be sure to mix for a total of 120 seconds or 2 minutes.

Too many folks mix for a few seconds or a minute and then end up with a finish that does not cure.

I had the same issue years ago and another builder suggested that I mix for 120 seconds.
So, now, I always check the clock and always mix for at least 120 seconds, using a wide blade to fold the mixture together. Since chaning to at least 120 seconds of mixing, I have never had another issue with tacky finish.

Take care
Roger

WOW !!! This is definitely a record for me.

I do try and mix the epoxy slow to reduce the amount of bubbles
I use a flat spattula to mix the epoxy
I have mixed the epoxy in the small cups and in a lid lined with aluminum foil. I like the foil better because it does not have the small ridges in the bottom that the cups do preventing me from mixing the epoxy as good as I can. It also seems like I get less bubbles using the foil for what-ever reason???
I use the syringes to measure both parts, as best that I can
My experience has been that I do not have any problems with a tacky finish when I use more hardner than resin
Although I live in Georgia, we have had some cold weather this winter. I work on my rods in my basement / garage that is not heated

Thanks for all the input, I hope to meet some of you at the expo. Maybe we can all where name tags?

Steve Chontos

Facinating and extremely humorous responses...thank you all.

I'm going to put finish on a VERY expensive rod this evening..i'm staring at Flex Coat, ThreadMaster, Aftcote, LS Supreme, and Gene Bullards Diamond II. Mixing cups and various brushes. stainless spatulas, rounded stainless, paper towels, acetone. cigarettes. propane torch, Bic lighter. No mixing machine, but I could quickly make one out of that drying motor by bending the base and using those stainless ball bearings in the cup under the foam sheets...cold one...63 degrees in the shop, comfy cozy. I dont think I'll "froth" the finish, sounds too violent. Flame the finish, again too violent, but I'm pretty good at keeping the flame low enough, and away, to burst a bubble. (I practice by trying to burn my hand first and judge the proper distance based on that..... A straw....I could use that method, but last time I tried that I spit on it, not good....is it the CO2 or the heat of my breath, honestly, I dont care, but its a cool discussion in my head.

My knees are starting to shake, many many factors to absorb...I think I can, I think I can....what if I'm allergic???

Again, thanks for the responses.

MJ

NERB that types with a bar of Ivory soap in his mouth.

Come on guy - this is not going to walk on the moon. I suggest use the threadmaster.

The more you worry about it the more your going to mess up. Just go for it. Weather it is a 50 dollar rod or a 5000 dollar rod ----all the same !!!!

Bill - willierods.com

MJ you never case to amuse me the way you put simple thoughts to words. You got to be a very complicated man!! Lots goin` on inside that head...........

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)