One more rookie problem, fish eye in finish, OK I understand to keep my grubby little paws of the thread, but I removed the guide and rewraped the guide, making SURE not to touch the thread, guess what fish eye came back, I think in the same spots? can it be oil or silicone or grease maybe on the blank that came back thru, also I am putting on CP. going to go out and do a test wrap and finish to make sure its not on the spool of thread but I dont think so. Thanks guys for all your help.

Scotty,
Whenever having a suspect location of contamination, I use Xylene to completely clean the blank with a clean cloth.
By using Xylene to wipe down the blank - before wrapping and applying finish - I have solved all of my fish eye problems.

Take care
Roger

So roger I understand it could be on the blank, I just did a test finish and it looks ok, what is Xylene and where can I get it. thanks

A single large fish eye is rarely a fish eye at all, but rather a large air bubble crater. But, that's not absolute. Try a good cleaning and then recoat and see what happens.

....................

You can wipe down the blank with Acetone or denatured alcahol. Do not let it dry on the blank. Wipe dry emediately.
Good wraps Bob

I'd be careful with zylene. Pretty unhealthy stuff. [www.pesticideinfo.org] I would also test it on a hidden area of the blank to make sure it doesn't damage the finish (not all finishes are created equal)

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/03/2008 09:14PM by Mike Barkley.

You can use Xylene or Acetone for cleaning, but for most uses, denatured alcohol is plenty of solvent for rod building needs. If you have silicone or oil problems Goo Gone is a great alternative to getting off oily stuff or glue from labels.

I use acetone on rare occasion to clean a brush, but I always have a couple gallons of denatured alcohol on hand.

Terry

Okay will use alcohol, but to toms comment, I have tried a second coat and the epoxy just keeps wicking away from the same area, twice now, But my original question is could the problem been something I got on the blank?

Terry,
If you check the label on Goo Gone, you will find that one of the principal ingrediants is Goo Gone.
I use either, which one happens to be handy.
I do think that Goo Gone is a bit less toxic than Xylene.

--
Scotty,
Xylene can be obtained at any paint or hardware or big box store in the paint department. It is commonly used as a thinner or cleaner for Epoxy paint. That is one of the reasons that Xylene makes such a good cleaner for Epoxy.

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If the epoxy keeps wicking away from a spot on the blank, it is likely that there is some sort of oil or silicone on the blank. That is why the use of a fairly agressive cleaner like acetone or Xylene generally works pretty well in such instances.

Take care
Roger

Yes it could be on the blank. Try a cleaned with alcohol, scrap blank with thread and finish, and a spot with out thread, if it is good, it is your blank. Strip, clean and re wrap .Wash you hands well !!!

Scotty,

To fix your issues you have a couple of options:

spray a couple light coats of Krylon fix-a-tif over the area, let cure, re-coat

lay down a couple coats of CP over the area, let cure and recoat (your sealing down the problem with both these)

Coat the area with new finish, let the area fisheye again, STAY WITH the rod, as the finsh thickens, you can work the thick finish over the area AT THE RIGHT TIME and it wont fisheye again because your finish is so thick. Lightly heat the area with a cig lighter IF NEEDED to smooth out the thickened finish-1 more thin coat may be needed later. It's a tricky, time consuming, PIA way to do it, but I've had success doing it this way before I found the Fix-A-Tif. I consider the fix a tif something that my shop bench HAS to have 24/7 or I wont even tackle things like decals and such.

DR