Tom, Russ, or whoever,

The photo in the bottom right corner of page 31 show grip being turned on a lathe setup. From the shape of the grip, it appears that the tip of the rod is to the left, but then I see what appears to be the lathe chuck?

I'm not lathe savvy - can someone clue me in to the tools here?

BTW Tom, great issue.

Bob Petti
[www.globalflyfisher.com]

Bob,

I don't mean to speak for Russ but I think I can clue you in here. The grip is mounted on the rod in the direction you mention. Extending to the right of the grip is the section of the blank where the reel seat will be placed. To the left, towards the chuck, is the remainder of the forward butt section. How can that be, you say? Easy. It is common practice to run the shaft, in this case a bamboo rod blank, competely through the chuck and headstock. Many people who purchase lathes make the headstock through-bore a prime concern before they lay down their dollars.

So why do it this way? Well, you could mount it in the opposite direction but the overall length of the shaft would be spun between the headstock and live center on the tailstock and "whip" of the rotating piece could be a problem. Woodworkers often use something known as a "steady rest" (which may or may not be fitted with rollers), but contacts the shaft at some point inbetween to remove any tendency of the part to whip out of line.

Chucking the bamboo blank up the way it is depicted in Russ's photo keeps the section between the head and tailstock shorter and thus reduces any tendency for it to whip.

So what about the end sticking through the headstock and out the other side? At some point it will tend to whip also, if it is long enough. In this case I suppose it wasn't, or that Russ had shimmed it inside the headstock. I'll let him give you the particulars.

Tom Kirkman
RodMaker Magazine
www.rodmakermagazine.com

.......................

Huh. The "through-bore" headstock (which I assume is the piece that actually turns whatever is chucked in the lathe) is new to me. I'm really a dunce when it comes to machine shop tools.

Thanks for the clarification, Tom.

Bob Petti
[www.globalflyfisher.com]

I build all my handles right on the blank.
I use a wood turning lathe with 44" bed. The head head stock (not through bored) has an external 4 jaw chuck ( 1-1/4" bite) attachment. As Tom states, I have made 2 outboard stands, one using the steady rest base and the second using a similar style. I have a piece of 3/4" round bar that fits into the stands giving vertical adjustment. I have 1 over 2 pyramid rollers that support and hold the blank in place.
The second stand is mounted on flat bar which slides back and forth (horizontally) on the bed to give extended bed length up to 66". I position the first stand just outboard of the handle I am turning to give full support and pick up the tail end the blank 3" - 6" in from the end. This gives me full support and eliminates whip. This is a very similar set up to what people use when powering with the likes of a 3/8 drill
You want to make sure to put masking tape on any blank surface that comes in contact with rollers etc.
Unless you have only a short piece sticking out the through bored head stock I would certainly want to give support from whip.

Gordon Money
Custom RodBuilders Supplies

sully. What brand and model lathe are you talking about. I am a tad ignorant myself on lathes, but this one sounds good.

Gordon, do you have plans you can share for the supports? What do you use for rollers?

Where and what is a Jet? I don't think I have ever heard of one of these.

Have you found 14" centers enough for most jobs? Do you turn yours on the blank or mandrel?