I just bought a 30 rpm motor and I was wondering if its too fast for drying? What is the best rpm for drying?

Hello i think 4 to about 12 rpm is the best i have a Rod Smith lathe it has a 30 rpm motor but it is geard down so it is not running 30 rpm. 30 rpm hooked up straight to the rod is to fast..what you want to do is get a pully 4 or 6 in and a belt i built one like that i got the pullys out of a old VCR .eell hope this helps regards John Bratton

I settled upon an 18rpm motor and it works well for me. I am not an expert and could not say for sure, but in the time I have been playing with different drying speeds it seemed to me like the thicker finishes worked better with very low rpm speeds and the lighter and thinner finishes worked better with higher rpm speeds. I'd like to hear what one of the finish manufacturers have to say about this.

A good general rule of thumb 'the faster the better'. I did a long drawn out program about 5 years ago, investigating speeds in about 10 rpm increments. The faster speeds are best for all finishes, thick or thin. Most of the guys having deplorable foot ball problems, dry edges etc are using the 3 or 4 rpm dryers. Put the same job on an 18rpm dryer and most of those problems disappear. I have a flexcoat four motor wall mounted OEM dryer with four 18rpm motors. I would use 100rpm motors if I could get them. Flexcoat used to supply the 100rpm motors, but in talking to them lately they could not get them any more, so I settle for the 18rpm. I have jury rigged several motors of various speeds around the shop, but quit that nonsense because of the clutter. I like to apply the epoxy at 150 to 200 rpm on my winder, then transfer it to the dryer at 18rpm. Most of these rigs use about the same motor, and the motors all seem to run at the same speed, its the gear box that determines the turning speed, and its the gear box that wears out in time. The motors seem to run forever.
If I had my druthers I would have all my motors at about 100rpm. The 30 rpm in question is certainly not to fast, and will outperform all the 3 and 4 rpm dryers which for some reason are so popular. The faster dryers, simply give a smoother more even surface to any of the epoxies.

I'm using a 40 rpm motor from Allelectronics.com($2.50!!!) to both apply and dry LS Supreme and it's working great for me. It may burn out tomorrow, but I've used it on five rods so far and not a glitch. It cost as much to ship the motor as to buy it.

I also have noticed that Football effect on just about all my guide wraps. I seem to not have the same problem on the butt wraps. I'm not really upset with the football effect since it's very minimal. I've been very carefull with not "globbing" the finish on, and usually always put on two, three and sometimes 4 coats. but I want to achieve a smoother more tapered finish that is level with the blank. I noticed another rod builder in my area doesn't have the same problem with his guides, but he uses Flex Coat. My motor turns at about 36 RPM. and could it be possible that the faster motors are placing a centrifical force on the finish in the middle that is causing the football appearance? the reason I'm thinking that is because when I first apply the finish, I don't have that football appearance. only after its been spinning for a while do I notce it. And at that point I leave it alone. I'm not arguing any work that has been done by you Ralph, But to me it makes sense. The other rod builder has a 18-20 RRM motor. If you tell me I'm nuts .... I'll believe you.

go with the speed you are comfortable working with. one that doesn't have you all dis-combotulated trying to figure out where to put the brush next, because its running too fast.

I purchased several of the 30 RPM motors from All Electronics and plan to build a 4 unit dryer. Does anyone have a source for cheap chucks such as the PVC ones with three thumb screws that I can purchase to chuck up the handles to the motors. As well as some large wheels with the o-rings for the rods to set on at the other end?

Initially I had a problem with L S at about 8 R.P.M. It was dimpled and did not spread evenly. I then put on the next 2 coats (heavy saltwater rod) and spun them at about 60 R. P. M. The results were much different. All of the blems were covered up and the final finish was flat and smooth.I am a believer in"The Faster The Better" Tom

Dwayne
Try this. apply your finish in your usual manner and when you are sure that you have your desired quantity, and after rotating for a minute or two - stop the rotating and merely examine the coated wrap. Note that the finish tends to build up in the middle of the wrap ON THE BOTTOM. Wick the excess finish from the bottom and continue rotating the rod, your finished wrap will probably be nice and even but it will need a second coat.
Note that the finish sagged to the middle before piling up on the bottom. It did not sag to either end, and if it did it is because your rod was not level. With a 3 or 4 rpm motor this sag to the middle will be almost the same as it is with a standing rod, hence the football. With a 10 -12 rpm motor the football is considerably thinner in the middle. With a 18 rpm is even better. Go to a 36 and the football is gone. At this speed you are able to add more resin and obtain a one coat finish, and the faster you go - the better the effect. The spinning of the coated rod, keeps the fluid finish in place. A slow spin can control only a thin coating , while the faster the spin, the more coating can be stabilized on the wrap up to a point.
You cannot compare your work with the work in another shop done by another person. If you are going to compare -- both variables must be in the same environment controlled by the same controlee. It comes down to simple physics. A slow spinning top tends to wobble. A fast spinning top runs smooth and true.

Ralph

I think you can find the items at Rodbuilders supplies (see link on left).

Andy

Ralph:
Thanks for the guidance. I was actually thinking of doing the exact thing you recommended a couple of days ago, but didn't want to experiment on the rod. I hope you and Tom and the rest of you masters continue to provide your help and experience. I remember when I first asked another rod builder a little over a year ago how he builds rods. He never told me anything, and was rather uncomfortable and evasive. As much as I enjoy rod building now, I'm so glad that you all have taken the time to help the "new guy" I'm sure you have learned the hard way, but I just want you to know your all going a good thing. Hopefully I will continue to learn and be able to pass it on also. Thanks

@#$%&, on All Coast has made several wrapping/drying lathes, at a most reasonable price. He is a quality source of info for building/purchasing the rollers and chucks.

Good luck
Hugh