OK Guys, I have been following the directions exactly. The only thing mentioned that I might vary on slightly is instead of pouring onto flat surface I use a stainless steel bowl with a flat bottom.
I feel like I am a somewhat experienced builder. I have built 32 rods total and continue in the process. I have always used Crystal Coat except for my first two rods on which I used Flex Coat, but did not like the viscosity.
I apply with the loaded brush above technique. I read all the responses to my previous threads and just now applied a second coat of LS. Now more problems arise. First it is not flowing out to the edges, it seems to be piling in the middle giving the wraps a "goose egg" look. I like a very low profile finish. Secondly, I can not get the finish to coat the edges of the wrap. On either end of the wrap I will apply a heavy coat and when I go back after treat the other wraps, the threads are sticking above the finish again (and this is the second coat). This really baffles me because with Crystal Coat I got better coverage and it is thinner! Third, I got bubbles. On the first coat I didn't get any, but this go around I have them everywhere! I duplicated the mixing and application as before, but it didn't work the same. Fourth, it setup too quick again.
I really want to give LS a shot because of the multiple coats with Crystal, plus LS is less toxic to work with and cleanup is easier, but I have an expo tomorrow and wanted to show this rod, now I am afraid I can't, the only solution is can I apply Crystal coat over LS? I am tempted to take off the finish as best I can and go with crystal coat, but I am afraid if the LS is not setup completely (5 days) it will not work. Please Help, I have to try to do something with this rod for tomorrow!!!

If there was really anything wrong with the LS Supreme, we'd all be having trouble with it. I'm not, and from what I read out and around it seems like most others are not.

I know that doesn't help you much but it is obvious you are not doing something right. I wonder if your rod is level? I found out that some of my earlier problems such as the finish 'footballing' in the middle or running off the ends was because I did not have my rod perfectly level. Getting it level solved all of those problems.

If you are getting a pot life of 30 minutes, then it is not setting up too quickly. Instead you are working too slowly. I do not mean to insult, but why would it take longer than maybe a minute to coat a guide wrap? I guess I am missing something here.

Finally, I am finding that 2 coats of the LS Supreme give me the best results. I don't try to get all the depth I need with a single coat. I use two and it seems to be all I need.

I'LL THROW MY TWO CENTS IN ON THE LS PROBLEM...I TOO HAVE USED IT AND HAVE NO PROBLEMS...FIRST TIME AROUND I PLAYED FOOTBALL...FOUND MY DRYER WAS RUNNING UN EVEN[ONLY SLIGHTLY BUT ENOUGH TO MESS IT UP]... I SPENT MANY PAINSTAKING MINUTES REMOVING FINISH
WITH A SCAPEL BLADE ,NOT MY CUP OF TEA BUT IT TURNED OUT FINE

After rod turns about 15 minutes level the finish out.. If you are getting a football affect then you are putting on too thick.. I also use alchol lamp to pop those bubbles, all it takes is 1 or2 swipes underneath wrap..I also use a very small brush.. It's called a Synthetic Hair Shader size2 from walmart.. After you use it clean it out with alchol then I use dish soap on it.. Brush lasts a long time if you take care of it.. Thanks Dave

I put on my finish with a spatula. I put on a very thin coat first when it is less viscous to seal the threads. the spatula lets me establish nice straight edges. i also use a stady rest especiall when I have consumeda fair mount of coffee. the second coat is applied later after the first is set. once all the guides are coated I stop the rotation of the blank to let the excess drip off and by touching the edges of the drips with the edge of my spatula which @#$%& them off. this does not take very long. then I continue the rods rotation. I also level the blank in the dryer before applying the finish. I also like LS because over the years of getting my hands in solvents and gas, while working on cars, painting my home and some gun smithing I have become sensitive to some of the more volital things which will cause contact dermtitis which I have an Rx salve to make go away as well as the vapors giving me head aches. if your not careful it will catch up with you eventually.

Kerry

The football effect is the result of gravity, a level rod and too much finish.

If you have a level rod and you coat, say, a 1 inch area with a brush loaded with water and don't turn it, what happens......as you add more water, a drop forms in the center of the one inch area and drips of. The same is happening with your finish, except because of the higher viscosity than watter and the rod is turning, the drop forming in the middle doesn't fall off, but makes a football. During the process of making the football, gravity is drawing the finish to the center and away from the edges and so your edges look starved.

Before pouring on to the foil, and breathing on it to pop any remaining bubbles, I put my mixed batch in the microwave for 3-5 seconds to get it good and runny, then apply it very lightly. When my first coat is complete, it looks more like a finish of color preserver. That seals the thread. The next day, after cutting off any burrs, I apply the second coat. This coat is still light, but finishes the rod very well. That's my method--and it works very well.

It might not work well with the LS Supreme. You're not supposed to heat it after it is mixed or it will boil and create more bubbles. Also heating it might make it runny for a short time but it will also shorten your pot life and this fellow says he needs all he can get.

I think if I were going to heat it I'd do it while the two parts were still in their own bottles and before it was mixed.

Heat the resin, never the curing agent. Yes, this will shorten the pot life.

Right on.... No heat. Supreme works great if mixed properly (50:50). Measure very closely. How fast are you rotating the blank? I use an 18 RPM motor with no problems.

Too heavy seems like most or your problems. I generally get good results with one coat applied and leveled with a spatula. That spatula is the best tool for the job and a great suggestion by someone here. I just started using it and wonder why I waited so long. Great leveling tool. Great edger too when turned sideways. Got mine from Mudhole.

Mix batch in a plastic cup very slowly for about two minutes with a metal tool, not something that will induce bubbles. Pour onto anything that will let it spread out so any remaing small bubbles can go away. It's hard to believe you are having such problems. It's the most effortless stuff I have ever used.

I once had to throw away some thread that was sprayed accidently with some WD 40 while cleaning reels in my work area. Fish eyes by the millions. Confused me for awhile until I cleaned up the whole area and tossed the thread.

Capt. Harold

Be very careful how you proceed here. I make about 100 rod per year and in the 14 years I have been making them have learned alot about finishes.

For many years I was lucky to get 2 out of 3 batches of finishes to properly set up and cure right. I was mixing small batches thinking that a larger 6 cc or more was wasteful. What was wasteful was having to redo 1 out of 3 rods when the finish didn't work out right. I read about using syringes and mixing up a larger batch and how it would give you a better margin of error. I tried it and in all the years since I have not had a single batch of finish to remain tacky or uncured. Don't vary the ratio of resin to hardener. Keep it exactly 1 to 1. The manufacturers don't tell you that to hear themselves talk.

For many years I got weird shapes on my finish. Sometimes the finish would football as described here and sometimes it would just get heavy on one end. I thought I just needed to find a better epoxy. What I needed to do was heed the advice of those who knew more than me. I read about how important it was to have the rod perfectly level. I checked mine and the rod centernline from butt to tip on a 7' rod was off just 3/8 inches. Surely not enough to hurt anything, right? I leveled it up by adjusting my supports and locking them in place and since then my finish comes out perfectly level and glass smooth. No more footballs, or pulling away from the edges or going heavy on one end.

I am happy to say that 99% of the finishing problems I ever had are now behind me and have been for some time. I hope you will able to say the same thing before long. Trust me -- I know what it's like to have a wrap job ruined because the finish doesn't turn out right. I know your plight.