Does anyone know of any tricks to get rid of the surface scratches on glossy blanks. I have some flyrod blanks that have a number of surface scratches that are so numerous, it almost gives those areas a matte looking finish. The sections were banded together, so I am figuring the scratches are a result of rubbing against the plastic bag and themselves. Short of epoxying the entire blank, are there any other alternatives? Thanks

Paul,
I think that I would first try some polishing wax to see it that will hide the marks. If that does not work you might try one of the rubbing compounds that are intended to polish out marks in car paint. Maybe someone else has some better ideas but if I were you I think that I would try it on a section of the butt of the blank first that will not show when the rod is done and I would not be too aggressive with the rubbing. The clear coat on most blanks is a pretty thin coating. I have seen this problem numerous times before and It would be interesting to know how you come out.

I use Meguiars Scratch X on all gloss blanks. I haven't found anything better for surface scratches and rub markings, not to mention just general polishing. It is not aggresive at all so you really have to work to completely remove finish.

Mick,
Where do you buy it and is it a paste? Does the blank have to be cleaned after using it or can you apply epoxy over it directly?

Hi Paul I am really rough on my gear and probably have scratches on everything. If you want smoothe and shinney I think you have to look at one of the finishes - maybe permagloss(not sure). If you just want to spiff em up a little, I find Lemon Pledge works for me but the scratches are still there just a bit more shiney

I am new and learning so bear with me. Do you want to use any type of wax before you wrap? Will that not hurt the epoxy?
Thanks Jack

Hi Jack - we are talking about an completed rod here I believe. I think waxes or lubricants before wrapping would be disasterous. Heck I even find using etoh (alcohol) sometimes causes some extra work.

Emory, it is a thin paste and comes in a large squeeze tube. I got it at Kmart and I've seen it in all auto shops like Carquest, Autozone, etc. I put it on a terry cloth towel and just go to town. I've never had any problems with builds after polishing, but I do "scrub" it down with a clean towel after polishing to make sure I don't have any residue. It's really good stuff.

[www.amazon.com]

Mick,
Thank you. I am going to give it a try. If it works well I will take all of the credit and if it does not I will blame you.

Paul
I had a friend give me a Tibet Almond Stick about three years ago and it works very well.
The Almond Stick is used on furniture but if you do an internet search on it you will see that it is used on lots of things like counter tops, glass, mirrors etc.
Like Doc said use this product on a finished rod only.

www.zcwinc.com/

Lynn

Try a little toothpaste thinned with water to a thin paste.

I use Sratch X also, followed with the Meguiars wax.

Fair enough Emory, following the craftsman's creed, LOL. It does take some elbow grease so if it doesn't work for you, I'll just say it's because you are getting feeble and remain blameless!

The wax will also keep your rods shiny....the dirt is easily removed with a light swish of a terry cloth towel. Dirt doesn't adhere to the blank I bet you could even use a duster to clean a rod after a good coat of wax. A five min wax job will save you lots of time later trying to get dried slime/weeds off your blank when fishing the salad for bass etc.