Hand Crafted, Custom built, etc??? What else?? do you include a date, do you number the rods, do you include the rod ratings, your name? I noticed a few people do not put the rod model on the inscriptions, and I'm wondering why not?

BTW: Mine look like this:

Custom Built by Billy Vivona
for Vince Vivona
Lamiglas XC4MH

Kinda run of the mill I think, but not sure what else I might add.

Thanks, Billy

Usually use the logo decal of the blank manufacturer like:

St. Croix Blank
handcrafted fishing rods by Solyrich

(we add our line after the 'handcrafted' part)

or simply use our own labels saying:

"Handcrafted Fishing Rods by Solyrich"

For inscriptions usually will weave the name and year, depending on what is asked for.

I believe it's best to keep it simple and short inscriptions, maybe add a fish decal below the inscription. Generally I don't put the rod model and can't give a good reason, but it is a good idea for reference.

Rich
www.solyrich.com

I would always list the rated lure weight, line weight and maybe length. This helps the angler remember what the rod is rated for. Some customers also like to have their name inscribed by itself, in a prominant position along the rod blank.

..................

We always ask the customer first, and then suggest something like;
Rainshadow 6' Lt Spin SJ721
Custom Made For
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
RJS 072501
Sometimes the customer wants just his name only.

Like Ron; I ask them first. If they say whatever is needed. Then I give them whole thing

Their name, my name, Date of delivery, Blank manufactured logo, lure weight, Line weight, Tip size, butt size, blank model number, guide spec, blank weight, Model year of the blank, action and power rating...

I use a Casio label printer which do wonders on 6 point size post scribe print with the help of a computer. I sometimes even add art work... Anything to please...

Good fishing (catching) <*)))))))><{

When I first started building rods for sale, I began using serial numbers on each one. I would usually put this on the handle, engraved if possible in the nylon/graphite seats. On other rod types and seat types I sometimes had to put it in other places. I kept, and still have, a corresponding notebook with the serial number of each rod recorded with the customer's name, date of delivery, rod model number, etc.

The serial number gave the customer some measure of security or of identifying the rod if it was stolen (inscriptions can be sanded off or covered over) and gave me a lifetime record of who and what and how many.

Just something you might consider doing.

.....................................

Tom,

Great idea, in this age of computer, data base holding serial number is a deal made for each other. Shall add that to my data base...

many thanks

Good fishing (catching) <*)))))))><{

Tell me more about the label printer you use. What model is it, how expensive is it, etc. Thanks -- Jim

Jim

I got mine from the casio outlet and paid barely a hundred (KL-8100), not to mention I got 6 rolls of silver on transparent, silver on
transparent, tape to go with it. the best part is that it uses the computer to draw and write ANYTHING you want on the label
ANYWHERE. I know that Casio has come out with a new label printer that uses tape not as tall but a whole lot cheaper
(KL-P1000),[www.casio.com]
like $50.00 which mounts on top of a mouse pad and use USB (too bad it only work on a WinTel box, but if you like me who use a
Mac, and unix boxes, (on the Mac side virtual PC 4.03 works beautifully with the new label printer)).

One trick I learned, warm the label after you printed it and roll it on a thin stick first before putting it on the rod or all corners will flare
up. I usually cut all corners round first which make it that much easier.

Hope this helped

Good fishing (catching) <*)))))))><{

I put:

Handcrafted by
(Logo) Jon Jenkins
7'6" 3wt. #0065

If customer wants the manufacturer info I will include it. (i.e. G. Loomis F1085 or whatever)
I went to local hobby shop and purchased a decal kit. I know there are a couple of companies that make these. Print using an inkjet, spay with included ink fixative, let dry for 24 hours, apply to blank (I put a thin coat of finish on the day before to provide a very smooth surface) using water slide off techique. Let that dry for 24 hours then apply another coat of finish.
Jon

We have the Alps printer, which lots has already been posted about. It too will make excellent logos and whatever you wish to print out, like fish, etc. It uses the micro dry method that is excellent on use with transparent water slide decal paper. This is the best for showing the least edges.
Makes for unique personalization, as Dorge say to please the customer.

I'm sure John Britt wil jump in here about his expertise with Alps. Have seen his wonderful work with this little printing device. The use of the different color ribbon cartridges makes for the sharp images.
We use mostly white for the backgroud 'color' against the image so that it will show on a dark blank.

Some of the best in rodbuilding is the personalization qualities.
You'de have a difficult time in getting that from a factory version.

Rich
www.rodreel.com

In Truth Rich ,Billy, is now the proud owner of an Alps5000,he made the orginal post I guess to see what would be the best use of it re inscriptions.To a lot of us I imagine the printer is the answer to poor penmanship,but I am looking into the Cassio printer that Dorge mentioned as an alternate means of labeling for a lower cost,will take some research as the label material seems to be quite high in cost,be interested if Dorge would amplfy on his post re colors availabe and any problems he has encounted with the printer,or if anyone else is using the PC model a little info will help others.
John

Last time I checked, casio even have rainbow color ribbons. That said, the ribbon from places like office depot, staples
are quite high, $16.99 per roll of 3/8" of 26' roll. Luckily there is Buy.com. Now, to be frank, the label is originally
purchase for my wife for labeling EVERYTHING, you got the idea... Until I discover that with the computer interface
and a white, gold, or silver on transparent tape make a good fishing rod label. I have use them on many rod and there is
indeed a few tricks to use it. First, the label material is hard and thick. I love water transfer label, but they are hard to
come by with what you need. That said, it is why I recommended to warm the label and curl it over a thin stick, round out
the sharp edges. One last things, DO NOT put the label ahead, try to put it just before you put on the finish. This shall
give the tape no time to flare up (it does flare up in about 5 hours!!). To be frank, on larger blanks, there are no problem, but on thinner than pencil fly rods,
the curve on the rod, you really need to warm up the tape and for the label to be curl first. Then it you warm it too much you
need to let it cool first or the adhesive will not work. I got my label from the outlets (Wisonsin at $12.00 for a 2 pack), the usual price of the label is $16.00
for a 26 ft tape or $21 from buy.com for 2 rolls. Not really expensive if you consider that each label is about 3" and you got over 100 of label per roll!!

Good fishing (catching) <*)))))))><{

Dorge,
Good hint about putting on the label prior to the finish.
An even better method is to apply a coat of finish first and then the label, followed by a top finish over the label. It give a sort of effect of 'floating' on the blank and also will keep out curled edges.

I'd like to look into the idea of that casio printer as well.
We have the earlier Alps version with micro dye transfer. Solly is more the expert with use of this, but we are fairly satisfied compared to labels that are thick. Currently using mostly the Walther's hobby decal water slide paper from an outfit in Minnesota (a small hobby shop within one day's shipping for us). It is fairly fragile to apply, but also gives a decent final appearance.
For fish or custom designs (even used dog photos and such), we use the same technique of applying over one coat of finish and then an overcoat. Have also used these decals on wood foregrips and then epoxy coating.

Still lots of ideas we haven't thought of in using the techniques. John was instrumental in helping out with some paper choices and use of the Alps. Thanks J. Britt.

Rich

Dorge,
I checked the Casio site and they had the KL-8100 for $50.00. That's not a bad price. You mentioned the corners try to flare up. What about laying down a coat of finish and letting it dry for a while then trying to put the label down while the first coat of finish is still tacky or a little bit soft allowing the label to kinda be pushed into the finish and then finish it off with another coat of finsh? Just a thought.

Steve

After you put your label on, wrap over it with thread and when the decal is completely covered, tie it off. Leave it like that for a few hours. Then remove the thread and the decal/label will no longer roll up at the corners. Put finish on at your leisure. Just another one of the great tips in the Rodmaker magazine I have learned from. I guess the thread tension really pushes the adhesive into the blank. All I know is that they really learn to behave once you do that!

Steve;

Of course laying down a coat finish or like what Pete said use thread to tie down. But you need first the first coat to dry, which
takes time. For those who has MUCH time in their hand and MANY dryers, it is not an issue, butting on two coat takes time.
And if you do it right, one coat is plenty. Understanding that, you will agree with me why I pay so much attention to do it right
the first time. I am a one coat person.... LOL Steve, the casio adhesive actually repel stickiness, been there; done that. The
casio label is an all weather adhesive (think children's bottles, cup that go in dish washer....and will not fall off)

Again if you do have the time I really do like the floating label, it sure look nice. Done it a few times and agree it look beautiful.
Not to mention the adhesive of the casio stick MUCH better on the epoxy than on the blank and WILL NOT flare. With the 1st
coat on, it stick so well, you WILL NOT need the thread at all.

Hope this helped.

Good fishing (catching) <*)))))))><{

I have been in contact with John Britt now for about 6 months regarding the Alps printer. He has helped me so much in getting through all the problems I ran into and helping me select all the right stuff. John, thank you once again for all the valuable knowledge you've shared with me over the past few months, and especially lately.

I posted this to see what other guys put on their rods. As you see there are a lot of things people do differently that spur new ideas. Since I am just atarting out still building for myself, the serial number sounds like a great way to keep track of things once I get starting building for others. I'm glad to see other people picked up some tips off this post as well.

These boards (all of the Rod Building boards) are like having a Seminar/Conclave every day. I'd like to thank each and every person who has helped me on these boards as well as all the private E-Mails I've received.

Thanks a lot, Billy

Thoughts on labels-decals
A light coat of finish should be placed on the area a decal is to be applied on any blank with a matte or flat finish.The reason is rather simple when you think about it,apply a decal to a matte finish blank,now you apply the finish,what happens is the decal actualy prevents the finish from reaching the blank,result-a high gloss finish over the area except where the decal is placed-you did use a clear finish I hope therefore you can now see the matte finish thru the decal-unsightly.Yes it takes more time but well worth it in appearance.

The water slides decals are the thinnest and clearest system-drawback as Rich said is they are fragile-should also use Distilled water for the application-prevents water spots{thanks John Kreeger}

The vinyl materials for transfers are numerous,I know at least two sponsors who sell this material if you want to make you own.
these materials while a little heavier are considered by many as easier to wotk with.Same rules hold true about the finish,my experience is that using a roller to apply the decal works far better then trying to use your fingers,you can apply far more pressure and insure a better bond with the rollers.They can be found in paint or wallpaper stores.Here the drawback is they are a horror to remove if placed wrong and rolled.
One final thought I mentioned in an earlier post that Tom Ks post re testing is the best advice I have seen and it holds true here always thoughly test any new item you are using before doing your good rod
John

I design my own lables with my computer, I use any paper I feel like at the time. email me I well explain it futher
Keep a tight line...Bob