Has anyone else used the "New & Improved Rod Bond"? The batch I have has a very different consistency or is a bad batch. If it is supposed to be kinda syrupy, I like the old better. The new seems a little harder to work with. Oh well, just wondering if anyone else has any comments on this.

Thanks,
Steve

Steve
You are not alone in wondering about the new improved rod bond. It was new alright ---improved it isn't. I am happy to inform you that we are back with the original and have been for about 6 months. The problem was that for several years we made rod bond from a hardener formula that we simply purchased from another epoxy firm. It saved us the hassle of mixing it before converting it to the paste. Our problems began when this other firm sold out to an out fit in Arkansas and moved their operation out of town, the new owners were not interested in supplying us as we are to small apples for their taste. So there we are up the creek with no paddle. I had to put out something and do it quick --- so the so called new and improved was the temporary answer while I frantically researched to come up with the old formula. What we have now is really better than the original. It has the consistency of warm butter, goes where you want it to go, and stays there, cures out tough as nails and stays flexible forever. I sure learned a lesson in economics and will never be caught with my pants down, like that ever again.

Ralph O'Quinn

I found the rod bond to be useless on game rods here in Australia as all roller tips come loose as well as some if not all reel seats coming adrift on the heavy stand up rods. To me a solid setting glue is far better for the securing of these important components over a semi soft and flexiable two part glue. Just thought i would give my opinion on the subject.

Stuart mackenzie
Precision Rods
Australia

I have not found the Rod Bond to be anything less than permanent. It is not a semi-soft or highly flexible adhesive in any way, shape or form. If yours is coming out that way, check your measuring and mixing procedure. I have used it for years on uni-butt gimbals and on rods up to 180lb/unlimited and never had a problem.

On the short batch of the "new and improved", it was good epoxy, just hard to use due to its "stickiness". This resulted in a lack of lubricity which made it hard to slide grips or snug fitting assemblies together. But it's not bad epoxy so don't be afraid to use it if you can. I have quite a bit here and use it for many uses in addition to rod building. (Made some kayak rod holder modifications with it yesterday and it worked great!) It's not too good for installing grips, but for most everything else it still works well.

And the Rod Bond that is currently shipping is as good as ever.

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Stu,
Also, I can't imagine why the problems with not bonding.
I've used both rod bond past epoxy and also classic coats which is runnier and longer setting. Both will bond and harden like concrete. No failures to date with heavy freshwater (musky,sturgeon) real seats or handles (some wood). Mixing equal parts is very important with rod bond. The other paste epoxies may have different instructions.

Haven't use the 'new and improved', but I prefer the 'soft butter' consistency as opposed to the 'too runny' or too thick mixtures.

What is the solid setting glue you mention?

Rich

Stuart is it possible that the Rod Bond you get Down Under is different then what is sold here,maybe Ralph can answer,I believe some finishes are different due to shipping regulations
John

They had U40 Rod Bond all over it. the story goes somthing like this. I was contracting for a rod company here in Australia we where using a different glue for many years untill the got the distributer ship for U40 they then walked into my work shop said to me stop using that glue you are now going to use this glue i said has it been tested here in Australia yet what is like on game rods or chair rod dose it hang onto the blank whene sliding a grip down. As i found out later they hadnt tested the stuff at all as it turned out i was the first to use it in mass production rods. A few months later we started getting rods back due to loose reel seats tips coming off and gripes turning. I had to work out for my self the way it should be mixed how it should be applied and every thing else that goes along with this glue. I was charged far any components that come adrift and had to repaire it myself for somthing that was totaly new on the market hear. As always most if not all companys here in Australia get somthing in and start using it with out trying it out first so you could say im a bit mad about the whole ordel. The product is probably good but when its stuck under your nose and told to stop using what you have used for the last 5 years and start using this one you dont get a chance to try it your self, offcourse i got ride of that company reel quick after all that mess after 6 years i get a kick in the guts. To me i could see the potential in the rod bond but dont forget i didnt have a chance to try it out properly,maybe i wasnt mixing it right maybe i wasnt adding the two parts correctly but im very carfull in this department.

Stuart mackenzie
Precision Rods
Australia

Hi Ralph : Bob Balcombe here. It has been a while sence we chated.
What I would like to see if some custom Rod builders in Washington couldn't get togather ever now and then to share ideas. As you know I live on the coast about 11/2 hrs drive from you
Hope to hear from you Bob

I hope Ralph will weigh in on this issue. I have never had a problem with Rod Bond letting go. It seems to adhere well and has good lubricity for installing grips. Also seems to be quite strong and I have had no problems even on very heavy offshore trolling rods. I know the target mix is 1:1 but Ralph has assured me that the mix is not as critical on the Rod Bond as it is on most epoxy thread wrap finishes. Unless you were off by a good bit it should still deliver excellent results.

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