Will FUJI hardloy guides withstand the super braids. I see a lot of Muskie Rods off the shelf with Hardloys and a stainless tip top. I was just curious? I can see the tip top as a good idea for cost effective and strength but heavy. My own will be S.I.C. all the way.
Mark

Yes they will stand braid. I saw color pictures of some that were tested along with sic as well as some non Fuji. It show that surface of the ring on the Hardaloy was a little more polished, the sic show no evidence as being used and the non fuji was grouved, for what it is worth.

Kerry

Today's superlines are not a problem for guides. Some of the first superlines contained different materials, like Kevlar, which damaged guides. Today's superlines are made from polyethelyne (milk jugs) and will not damage guides. Polyethelyne is a slick plastic and it really is almost like it's self lubricating.

Mark,
Don't have test data, but I believe when talking about the use of super braid lines on muskie rods, you have to take into consideration several factors about guide wear, or possible grooving. Hard ceramic ring guides (hardloy, hialoy, etc.) are most likely fine to use in MOst situations. As with overrating the blank line load, my thinking is that with using super braid lines in the higher tests, there is considerable interraction on the guide surface and line contact. Consider that a lot of current choice might be 80# super braid line being used, but is chosen on the basis of thin line diameter (maybe only 20# equivalent). The line has nearly no stretch, and is designed for positive powerful hookset. You can see the line at these high tests can produce quite a bit more 'infulence' against the rod and guides.

I like the assurrance of a harder material for at least the tip top, but for using hi test super braids, I recommend a step up in hardness from hardloy ceramic ring material. The peace of mind in being able to handle better the high heat build up and bearing down on the guide that 'might' groove and fighting the trophy of a lifetime is really the key here in relation to the muskie class rods.

I tend to go along with your idea of using SiC or zirconia hardness guides for most muskie rods in the higher line class ratings at least.
They are more expensive, but not necessarily heavier. SiC can be more 'fragile' to being banged about, but the idea is greater hardness and better dissipation of line heat build up.

A note on superlines like Tuf-line is that they are made of 'Spectra' space age fibers. Many are treated by various methods to resist abrasion on the line. I think much more to consider here is the weight line chosen. The heavier the line, the more it can play an influence against the equipment (rod, blank, guides, etc.).

Rich
Solyrich Custom Rods

Been using spiderwire since it came out. And been using them on fuji hardloy (note, fuji here, not the cheap imitations). No problems. Some of the rods are still in use.

Mr. Tan:

What cheap imitations do you mean? Hardloy/Hialoy/?loy are the same rings! Just a different name for each individual manufacturer to call their version. Please do not get titanium oxide and alumina oxide and silicon carbide confused next.

Mark, you should have no problem with whatever ring you choose, but do stay away from the ceramic. Good idea to go with the SIC top, this is how I run all of my rods, even the light actions. Just a habit that is hard to break, tough to think of crappie being tough on tackle.

Good luck


Gregor

Mr. Selke,

the cheap imitations are the ones on the cheap rods that I wouldn't even know what brand they are. Some people I know refer to these as hardloy, though they are not hardloy, or hialoy.

Mark, Selke is right, go for an SiC tip top. I build all my freshwater rods on hardloy with and SiC top to keep the cost dowm. On bluewater I prefer all SiC, but I don't think it is a must. Nice to have for the insurance. Have seen heaps of billfish do 300-400 yd runs on hardloy on both SiC, rollers, and HARDLOY. Never seen a problem with the line on hardloy yet, with both mono and braid. Only problem with hardloy is if the line see-saws on the same area continuously the heat will destroy the mono. Don't see that problem with muskie nor most bluewater fish. (I haven't gone for large tuna <yet> so no comment on those).