- By Rich Forhan
The advantages of single foot guides for high performance casting and
spinning rods are significant.
However, single foot guides have been considered best for light tackle
applications. �Not any more. �Fuji's new "J" ring series, sizes 6J, 7J, 8J,
& 10J have a shorter eye-to-leg distance which makes for a much stronger
guide. �This feature, combined with my locking wrap, should prove to be the
undoing of many double foot guides (pun intended).
- Lighter �(& therefore more sensitive)
- Less flat spotting �(making the rod feel more alive!)
- Less thread and epoxy used �(less weight again)
- Shorter wrapping and epoxy time.
Single foot guides should be considered for all applications short of heavy
saltwater use. �I tested a normal wrap, the security wrap (RodMaker Vol. 2,
#6, pages 16-17) and my locking wrap in an attempt to come up with the best
wrap possible for the Tournament Pros that use my rods (rather roughly
sometimes). �I wrapped a scrap piece of rod and tested the 3 wraps by
pulling the test piece out of my boat's rod locker and purposely hooking the
eye each time. �The results were enlightening. �The guide with the standard
wrap pulled out after 4 snags, the security wrapped guide pulled out after 8
snags. �My locking wrap never allowed the guide to be pulled out of the
epoxy! �After over 20 snags and pulls (which only tended to flatten the
guide against the blank) - the insert popped out from the treatment.
The Locking Wrap
Here's how to do my locking wrap. �Stop one wrap short of the guide leg and
then put in a tie-off loop (I use Berkley's Gorilla braid �- �30 lb test)
Now wrap one "blocking wrap" behind the guide (1). �(A blocking wrap is what
I term any wrap that is made beyond the guide leg/ring, as in the standard
single foot guide security wrap.) �This will effectively line up the locking
wraps to follow. �The "locking wrap" is made by coming behind the back of
the guide, then going back around the guide leg a full 360 degrees and then
continuing in the same direction as the other wraps (2 & 3). �These locking
wraps completely encircle the guide leg and guarantee the guide cannot be
pulled from the wrap. After 3 locking wraps are in position - use 2 blocking
wraps to finish (4). � After the 2 blocking wraps are made, tie-off in the
Once the threads are epoxied, the guide is now effectively prevented from
pulling out. �All three of the locking wraps would have to break before the
guide could be pulled out from under the thread. �Use a burnishing tool to
pack the threads closely together before using finish. �Properly executed,
the blocking wraps are hardly noticeable and do not in any way detract from
a neat appearance.
At first the going may be a little slow but in a short time one can do the
locking wrap with ease. �I use the locking wrap on all single foot guides
(both spinning and spiral wrap rods) to enhance durability. �The roughest
treatment can only flatten the guide or pop the insert out (never pulls the
guide out from under the thread). �Of course, if the insert is forced out,
the guide must be replaced. �It will usually take many blows to do this. �In
summary here are the 7 wraps that make up my locking wrap.
- Last wrap in front of leg/ring to secure tie-off loop
- Blocking wrap behind eye (serves to align the following wraps and prevent
gaps) � �
- 1st locking wrap
- 2nd locking wrap
- 3rd locking wrap
- 2nd blocking wrap behind eye
- 3rd blocking wrap (you can vary the number of "blocking" & "locking wraps"
as you see fit, although using more of either has not been proven to
increase durability any further.) -
1. �Insert your tie-off loop about one wrap before you reach the guide ring
leg. �In the photo, the first "blocking" wrap has been made in the same
manner as in a normal single foot guide security wrap. �A second wrap is now
made but instead of continuing around the blank, it is brought around the
guide ring leg.
2. �The thread is brought completely around the guide leg in a 360 degree
circle. �In other words, it completely encircles the guide leg. �The thread
is then wrapped as normal around the blank and two more identical "locking"
wraps, also encircling the guide leg, are made.
3. �From this angle you can see the first "locking" wrap which completely
encircles the guide ring leg. �Again, this is done twice more for a total of
3 "locking" wraps around the guide leg. �Use your thumbnail or suitable
thread tool to pack these wraps against each other.
4. �After a total of 3 locking wraps have been made, the thread is wrapped
for 2 more turns in normal fashion and the wrap is tied off. �The finished
product finishes well and the locking wraps are almost unnoticeable. �The
guide is now securely locked into place. �