I
nternet gathering place for custom rod builders
  • Custom Rod Builders - This message board is provided for your use by the sponsors listed on the left side of the page. Feel free to post any question, answers or topics related in any way to custom building. When purchasing products please remember those who sponsor this board.

  • Manufacturers and Vendors - Only board sponsors are permitted and encouraged to promote and advertise products on the board. You may become a sponsor for a nominal fee. It is the sponsor fees that pay for this message board.

  • Rules - Rod building is a decent and rewarding craft. Those who participate in it are assumed to be civilized individuals who are kind and considerate in their dealings with others. Please respond to others in the same fashion in which you would like to be responded to. Registration IS NOW required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting. Posts which are inflammatory, insulting, or that fail to include a proper name and email address will be removed and the persons responsible will be barred from further participation.

    Registration is now required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting.
SPONSORS

2014 Custom Rod Expo
Common Cents Info
Int. Custom Rod Symbol
RM Library Program
All American Guides
American Tackle
Angler’s Envy
Anglerís Roost
Anglers Rsrc - Fuji
Anglers Workshop
BatsonRainshadowALPS
Bingham Enterprises
BLAF coming soon
Blue Collar Sports
Cork 4U
CTS Fly Rod Blanks
Custom Fly Grips LLC
Custom Labeling System
Custom Rod Handles
DBlue Fishing
DC Tackle
Decal Connection
Dons Tackle
DONART
Flex Coat Co.
Get Bit Outdoors
Hook & Hackle
HYDRA
Janns NetCraft
Lamiglas
Mickels Custom Rods
Midwest Rod & Reel
Mud Hole Tackle
MHX Rod Blanks
North Fork Composites
Pacific Bay
ProProducts
Reelseatblanks.com
Renzetti Inc.
Riley Rods
Rodbuilder Supplies
Rodgeeks
RodMaker Magazine
RodMaker Magazine Blog
RODPRO Europe
RodWerx
Schneiders Rod Shop
Southern Graffix
St Croix
Swampland Tackle
TackleWorks
The RodWorks
Trondak U-40
Utmost Enterprises
Versitex
VisualWRAP/VisualWEAVE
ZipCast

Weaving Jig?
Posted by: Jim Brandt (---.dsl.rcsntx.swbell.net)
Date: March 05, 2002 08:50PM

Well I decided to take the plunge and get a weaving jig. No more tape for me! I do have a couple of questions on using the jig. Hope I can get a little insight.

1. Which side of the jig do the threads go on? The inside of the V or the outside?

2. Any suggestions on tightening the weave after it is complete? I imagine that too much pressure and the thread will pull through as there is no tape to hold it in place.

Any other suggestions or hints would be appreciated.

Thanks

Jim

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Weaving Jig?
Posted by: Ellis Mendiola (---.proxy.aol.com)
Date: March 05, 2002 10:56PM

Jim, you tape your thread on one end then start your overwrap. I weave left to right so on the right side past the pattern area I also put tape and roll it back on itself to creat a sticky side. I line up my threads going to the right very straight on the sticky area first and then though the inside of the loom and out through the coresponding numered slits. Someone with more experience might have a better way but when I got my jig my method worked fine the first time.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Weaving Jig?
Posted by: Pat Barnard (---.bp.com)
Date: March 05, 2002 11:12PM

Jim,
Glad to see you are taking the "plunge" as you state! As far as the "V" you are talking about.... are you referring to the uprights that hold the rod in palce? My jig and weaving method uses 1/8 0z Rubber core sinkers made by Water Gremlin. I stopped using the tape method years ago and went to the hanging weight method, although great results can be had with tape, that system was not for me.
After the weave is complete I take each individual weaving thread and pull slightly to the right to tighten, I wrap from right to left. Then I use the following method to further tighten and close all gaps. I use very thin monofilament thread, the kind used for sewing hems on polyester cloth. I purchased mine at the local supermarket for about $1.00 a spool. Apply this mono thread BEFORE the finish is applied. Wrap this at a slight angle from the beginning of the completed weave to the end, the slight angle prevents the thin mono from digging into the background thread. When applying this mono, try and lay each wind tight against the other as this will help eliminate the cross lines left from the mono when the finish dries. Use only enough tension on the mono to compress the threads. After the mono is tied off, you can then move errant weaving threads into place with a pointed thread tool, and close all gaps. Use only enough pressure to move the threads into place. When you are satisfied that the weave is tight and free of gaps, I apply finish to the WEAVE only. Use the finish sparingly, only enough to cover the threads, I try and prevent finish from getting onto the background thread. If you observe any threads you have missed during the initial tightening, tighten them now while the finish is wet.
I then wait till the finish is dry and slowly remove the mono thread. Your weave will then be tight and clean, hopefully void of any gaps. I then frame the weave in and apply the final finish. This method has been shared with me over the years by individuals who use CP instead of finish. I tried the CP route and when removing the mono after the CP has dried this had a tendency of pulling dried patches of CP from the weave, left a blotchy appearance. Hopefully this helps, if you need additional info just drop me a line.


PS: Use can use this method on Crosswraps as well.

Hope all your weaves are tight....


Pat Barnard

Pat Barnards Custom Rods

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Weaving Jig?
Posted by: Jim Kastorff (---.proxy.aol.com)
Date: March 06, 2002 12:15AM

email me your address and I'll send you my weave tips sheet for using a loom such as you describe which I also use,
I wrap about a half inch of the weave threads with the turning threads with very tight thread tension(I hold them down with double stick golf tape). Then as I'm doing the weave, I constantly pull the weave threads tight but not so tight as to pull the threads loose-practice makes perfect. When the weave is completed, I pull each individual thread tight again.
When completed, I put Flexcoat color preserver on the weave only and allow it to almost dry. This makes the threads easier to move(and they usually stay put) to give a final tightening to the threads(I use almost 100% gudebrod A metallic for my weaves)
I then put trim bands on each side of the weave and apply finish to the whole weave. Usually takes several coats to achieve a smooth finish over the entire weave.
I think the weaves look much finer using A thread verses Cor D thread - jmo

Options: ReplyQuote


Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.