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Practice Tiger/ Holo wrap
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Raymond_Adams
Registered: May 2005
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 2,187
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Base wrap is Anglers Warehouse size "B" green and white reg. nylon. Overwrap is Gudebrod "A" verigated light/dark green reg. nylon. From left to right, 1)basewrap w/finish 2)overwrap completed and spare removed,
3)top finish coat applied
I was disappointed with results until I made the mistake of NOT applying CP before the top coat of finish like I had intended to! Also, the practice shows what happens if you DO NOT burnish well OR try and burnish AFTER the spacing thread is removed.
THIS IS FUN!!
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| · Date: Tue May 8, 2007 · Views: 2,894 · Filesize: 43.7kb, 298.2kb · Dimensions: 1700 x 2199 ·
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Keywords: Practice Tiger/ Holo wrap
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Raymond_Adams
Registered: May 2005
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 2,187
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Also, funny the basewrap looked nothing like the photo! rather plain green & white threads wrapped together. made the dark green look very much lighter is all. But the camera really sees what the naked eye cant!
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Tom Kirkman
Registered: March 2005
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 1,459
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You also need to be careful about using different sized threads. The effect is based on similar sized threads perfectly blocking out each other. You can do it, but the effect is heightened by using the same size threads for both layers. Scott's method for spacing the top thread is also better than Bill's (even Bill says so) so I'd do it that way, if you're not already.
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Raymond_Adams
Registered: May 2005
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 2,187
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Yep! The different size of the top layer was an experiment mostly because I wanted to use the only varigated thread I had. Did use another size A thread as the spacer thread to keep that part consistant with Scott's and Bill's instructions. I completed another test wrap using all gudebrod size A HT metalics (gold and blue) but the photos are not the best. The metalics are STRIKING! Will try again to get some pic to post!
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Jeff Friend
Registered: November 2005
Location: Palestine, Texas
Posts: 68
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Ray, Isn't this a hoot man?! What type of burnishing are you doing to the top thread. My thought was all the irregular burnishng was done to the bottom threads only. I'm curious as to what & how burnishing the top thread will affect the overall look. I think we'll be finding new ways to this stuff for years to come. Thanks for sharing and keep 'em coming
Jeff
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Raymond_Adams
Registered: May 2005
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 2,187
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you only want to burnish the top layer just to make the spacing uniform BEFORE you remove the spacing u(unused)thread. I actually made it worse by trying to touch it up after the spacing thread was removed. When Bill & Scott said NOT to
let the overwrap thread move they ment it! LOL
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Scott Throop
Registered: September 2005
Location: Camarillo CA
Posts: 170
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Yup, trying to burnish the top thread is really a hit and miss proposition, but one thing for sure...gotta be done before the pullout is removed! And then the pullout has to be removed VERY carefully so the wavy gap isnt disturbed. one thread gets knocked out of place it really stands out when its finished. If I dont burnish the top thread, I can usually take the belt off of the machine, stand back a few feet and pull the thread straight off with the rod free-spinning, without knocking a thread out of place. But If I do get crazy and attempt to burnish the top layer, I turn the rod by hand and gently pull the thread from the groove. Burnishing the top thread can be really tricky because the thread tends to bury itself and take a set in the finish layer...it doesnt want to slide around as easily as it does on a bare blank. If you have the time and patience to let the finish set up and harden for a week, the thread can be manipulated a lot easier, but the trade-off is that it will be much easier to disturb the gap when removing the pullout, or when applying the next finish coat. Of course this is my experience with the finish I use the most, FlexCoat HB.
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lee crumpton
Registered: July 2009
Location: Australia
Posts: 47
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Tue February 23, 2010 4:15am
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i think hand wraping the final threads and packing them as you go is a better but time consuming option any thoughts ?
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