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Splintered rod
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Herb Bickings Jr
Registered: May 2006
Location: S.E. PA.
Posts: 21
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I built this rod for a buddy about 1 year ago, he sent me this photo and asked what might have caused this to happen, I can't find my Rod Maker issue with the rod breakage article in it. Any thoughts on what happened to it. Thanks
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| · Date: Mon May 3, 2010 · Views: 778 · Filesize: 21.4kb · Dimensions: 341 x 256 ·
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Keywords: Splintered rod
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bill boettcher
Registered: March 2005
Location: Hackensack new jersey
Posts: 211
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Herb
post on the board, you will get more attention
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Tom Kirkman
Registered: March 2005
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 1,566
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Ned another angle - where is the splinter located in relation to the tip or butt? Is there a break, or just that splinter?
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Herb Bickings Jr
Registered: May 2006
Location: S.E. PA.
Posts: 21
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Tom, it's an 8'6" musky rod and he said it's about in the middle of the rod and didn't say anything about a break, I'm going to try to get it back this weekend and look it over. I'll take a couple more photos and post them. Thanks
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roger wilson
Registered: April 2007
Posts: 89
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Herb,
This break looks like the rod blank might have struck something. It seems, without any better detail that the sliver of rod blank broke off from the point where the finger is located. I have seen this sort of fracture occur, when a blank strike a sharp surface and essentially cut the carbon fibers. Then, when stess is applied, the cut fibers pop free along with a shard of the fibers peeling back on the blank.
One way to fix it would be to take a blank section, - run it through the band saw to split it and essentially splint the break with the split blank section and then do an overwarp on that piece of blank section. Obviously you would select the blank section to be a nice tight fit on the broken part of the rod.
It appaers that 95 % of the blank is intact. If that is the case, all that you really need to do is to splint the piece of graphite that has broken loose from the blank with at least a 2 inch overlap on the unbroken part of the blank, and extending down past the full length of the stripped shard and 2 more inches into the unbroken part of the blank. When, I apply the repair splint, I will first prefit the pieces to be sure that everything fits tightly and makes a nice tight fit on the blank. Then, I mix up a batch of 5 minute epoxy, apply a layer under the stripped off piece of graphite, and also over the surface of the broken section and on the inside of the splint. Squeeze tightly together and use masking tape on each end to insure that the fit is tight. Before the cure is 100% complete, be sure to remove the tape and remove any glue that might have oozed from the cracks and or ends of the splint. Easy to clean up with Xylene - as long as the glue is not 100% cured.
After curing, simply do a splint end to end overwrap and a nice thread finish over the overwrap and you will be good for many more fish to be caught on this rod.
Take care
Roger
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Mike Winkler
Registered: July 2009
Location: Peshtigo, WI
Posts: 114
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I've seen something like this one time before. Not on a fishing rod, but on my compound hunting bow. I accidentally touched my broad head blade to the limb. It did the same thing. A little tiny cut in the fibers caused it to split length wise just like that, when it was pulled back. When you get it back take a look at the top of the split where the splintered piece and the blank meet. I'd bet you will be able to see a small slice in the material. Maybe a hook, knife blade....numerous reasons. Causing a weak spot in the blank, not enough to break, but when loaded that area gave and just pealed back. Is it on the top of the rod? Mike
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Herb Bickings Jr
Registered: May 2006
Location: S.E. PA.
Posts: 21
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Thanks guys, I'll post some more info and photos when I get the rod back.
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