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Mike Barkley
Registered: March 2005
Location: Southgate, Michigan
Posts: 1,119
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Mon August 29, 2005 6:29pm
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Really nice!!! How about some instructions on doing it?? I really like them
Mike
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Mark Fisher
Registered: March 2005
Location: Broken Hill, N.S.W, Australia
Posts: 1,715
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Mon August 29, 2005 6:47pm
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I'm with Mike on this one Bill. Very nice.
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bill boettcher
Registered: March 2005
Location: Hackensack new jersey
Posts: 211
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Tue August 30, 2005 7:22am
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I put a flexcoat arbor in the seat so after it is dried has a small hole for a scrap piece of blank to fit in and go on a drill. Then turn the seat threads so the nut fits LOOSELY. Room for paint and clear. Clean, CHECK FOR SCRATCHES!two light coats of paint, let dry well, then clear. Mask off the nut, put on large scrap blank paint and clear
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BIlly Vivona
Registered: March 2005
Location: Staten Island, New York
Posts: 2,910
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Tue August 30, 2005 7:40am
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What paint, what cleat. Details man, details.
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****** Unique products for rod builders: [ link ] click the link ******
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bill boettcher
Registered: March 2005
Location: Hackensack new jersey
Posts: 211
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Tue August 30, 2005 7:49am
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Sorry Billy, Plasti-kote auto spray. I tried Duplicolor, don't like it. A urethane clear is probably harder but I thin out maybe LS, and put one medium coat on. Let dry 2-3 days for hardness. Then if ya want real nice, wet sand with 600-800 and give it a secound coat just on the seat body.
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BIlly Vivona
Registered: March 2005
Location: Staten Island, New York
Posts: 2,910
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Tue August 30, 2005 9:38am
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Thanks. I know you've posted it before, but I think people missed it. I know I've asked if the locking nut is impeded by teh paint/epoxy on the threads, and you said not at all.
How do the paint jobs hold up to abuse? I would think just fine.
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****** Unique products for rod builders: [ link ] click the link ******
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bill boettcher
Registered: March 2005
Location: Hackensack new jersey
Posts: 211
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Tue August 30, 2005 9:56am
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Permagloss or a two part urethain is best, but they can be a pain in the a---
I went back to two part clears thined,thread clears. They last on the wraps -- don't they. Just give them a couple of days to harden. I also sand down the threads to give room for paint and clear----you can always by Fuji's for $50
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BIlly Vivona
Registered: March 2005
Location: Staten Island, New York
Posts: 2,910
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Tue August 30, 2005 11:06am
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Ah see, you sand the threads down. I knew something else had to be done. The Fuji's only cost $30, direct from Japan. Although they do not come with a Fuji Tackle sticker on teh reel seat itself, only stamped on the hood.
The epoxy doesn't last well on teh wraps - if you have a split grip with a wrap in between, and fish on Party Boats with sarpened aluminum rod holders (lol) - you'll see how bad anything looks when rubbed on it. That's my concern - and it's a concern with teh painted Fuji's, the same as the Bill B painted Fuji's. If I fished in a les harsh environment, I would have no worries whatsoever.
REgardless, good info, thanx for sharing.
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****** Unique products for rod builders: [ link ] click the link ******
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